justme
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Post by justme on Mar 13, 2015 12:35:08 GMT -5
I would get it fix and then sell it on craigslist or trade it in without getting anything else fixed. You can sell in MD without an inspection certificate. Some car guy, who can do his own work, or who knows someone will buy it, if it runs. except getting it fixed has the potential to increase my insurance rates at the next renewal. not sure I want to take that chance since my insurance costs are already through the roof. I hate cars! I know in my state they can't raise your rates for a no fault accident that had to go on your insurance. I got hit by a hit and run myself years back and the rates didn't increase. Also a couple years later when I got insurance on my own it wasn't a negative.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2015 12:42:56 GMT -5
except getting it fixed has the potential to increase my insurance rates at the next renewal. not sure I want to take that chance since my insurance costs are already through the roof. I hate cars! I know in my state they can't raise your rates for a no fault accident that had to go on your insurance. I got hit by a hit and run myself years back and the rates didn't increase. Also a couple years later when I got insurance on my own it wasn't a negative. unfortunately in MD they've changed some rules and it may have an effect - not sure I want to chance it since DS1 has an at-fault accident from december.
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Ombud
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Post by Ombud on Mar 18, 2015 9:36:23 GMT -5
The car was hit by a hit and run driver last week - $1956 - and while it's covered under uninsured motorist, it's a $250 deductible. ... the car is around 173K. Kinda confused. Can you clarify something? If it costs more to fix then it's worth or if it's been 'totaled,' why aren't you just getting paid off by insurance company? I had to do that last November (says the lady who still misses her dark red Saturn ION but is driving a 2014 Honda Civic bc of another driver)
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 10:33:14 GMT -5
The car was hit by a hit and run driver last week - $1956 - and while it's covered under uninsured motorist, it's a $250 deductible. ... the car is around 173K. Kinda confused. Can you clarify something? If it costs more to fix then it's worth or if it's been 'totaled,' why aren't you just getting paid off by insurance company? I had to do that last November (says the lady who still misses her dark red Saturn ION but is driving a 2014 Honda Civic bc of another driver)because if it's totaled by the insurance company and I take the payout, I have to buy another car and there's no way I'm buying what I can get with the insurance payout ($2500 maybe) so I will have a 3rd car payment.
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tskeeter
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Post by tskeeter on Mar 18, 2015 11:44:53 GMT -5
so I think the time has finally come to put the 2003 Accord out of its misery. The car was hit by a hit and run driver last week - $1956 - and while it's covered under uninsured motorist, it's a $250 deductible. This is just one more thing on the list of thing wrong with it. rear taillight broken, lots of other cosmetic damage, electrical things starting to get wonky, needs a tune-up/fuel injector cleaning (gas mileage is crap), power steering needs a change, needs belts most likely, and it's coming up on needing another timing belt. I'm all for sending it to the scrap heap except I would like to sell the transmission, as it was replaced at 123K and now the car is around 173K. can I advertise on craigslist that I'm selling a transmission? is that something people buy? or should I try and get a mechanic to buy the car just for the transmission? I suggest you either let the insurance company pay you for the car and total it, or sell it for whatever you can get. Assuming the car is an LX, Kelly Blue Book says a private party sale for a car in fair condition would be about $3,300. Your car is a long way from fair condition. So, your estimate of $2,500 might be a little optimistic. I'm guessing that as a trade in, a dealer would give you less that $1,500. If they would even take the car. You have a car that it appears would require nearly $2K to repair the accident damage. And then it sounds like the car needs another $2K of repairs to keep it drivable and to pass the state inspection. Putting $4K into a car that mght be worth about $2K doesn't seem like a good idea. If you think the insurance company offer is reasonable, save the $2K you'd have to put into other repairs, and use the money to make a down payment on something else. Sell the transmission? I wouldn't. I'm thinking that a used, not newly rebuilt, transmission for an '03 would be worth about $500 on e-bay if it was out of the car. So, if you took the transmission out, sold it for $500 and then sold the rest of car to a scrap metal dealer or junk yard for maybe $100, you'd have turned your $1,500 - $2,000 car into $600 and invested quite a bit of effort in removing the transmission. Since you can't replace the broken tail light lens on your own, I assume that you'd have to hire someone to remove the transmission from the car for you. By the time you did that, I'd bet that the cost of the labor to remove the transmission would be nearly as much, or maybe more than you could sell the transmission for. the car in the way the provides you the most cash and move on.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 11:52:58 GMT -5
so I think the time has finally come to put the 2003 Accord out of its misery. The car was hit by a hit and run driver last week - $1956 - and while it's covered under uninsured motorist, it's a $250 deductible. This is just one more thing on the list of thing wrong with it. rear taillight broken, lots of other cosmetic damage, electrical things starting to get wonky, needs a tune-up/fuel injector cleaning (gas mileage is crap), power steering needs a change, needs belts most likely, and it's coming up on needing another timing belt. I'm all for sending it to the scrap heap except I would like to sell the transmission, as it was replaced at 123K and now the car is around 173K. can I advertise on craigslist that I'm selling a transmission? is that something people buy? or should I try and get a mechanic to buy the car just for the transmission? I suggest you either let the insurance company pay you for the car and total it, or sell it for whatever you can get. Assuming the car is an LX, Kelly Blue Book says a private party sale for a car in fair condition would be about $3,300. Your car is a long way from fair condition. So, your estimate of $2,500 might be a little optimistic. I'm guessing that as a trade in, a dealer would give you less that $1,500. If they would even take the car. You have a car that it appears would require nearly $2K to repair the accident damage. And then it sounds like the car needs another $2K of repairs to keep it drivable and to pass the state inspection. Putting $4K into a car that mght be worth about $2K doesn't seem like a good idea. If you think the insurance company offer is reasonable, save the $2K you'd have to put into other repairs, and use the money to make a down payment on something else. Sell the transmission? I wouldn't. I'm thinking that a used, not newly rebuilt, transmission for an '03 would be worth about $500 on e-bay if it was out of the car. So, if you took the transmission out, sold it for $500 and then sold the rest of car to a scrap metal dealer or junk yard for maybe $100, you'd have turned your $1,500 - $2,000 car into $600 and invested quite a bit of effort in removing the transmission. Since you can't replace the broken tail light lens on your own, I assume that you'd have to hire someone to remove the transmission from the car for you. By the time you did that, I'd bet that the cost of the labor to remove the transmission would be nearly as much, or maybe more than you could sell the transmission for. the car in the way the provides you the most cash and move on. it's an EX-V6. front headlight was replaced last night for $60 (DS' friend) so he is just going to keep driving the car until it has a major repair come up. just because it would need other repairs for someone else to title it doesn't mean I'm going to do all those repairs. I still haven't decided if I'm making a claim. we did file an incident report with the police in case I decide to.
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justme
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Post by justme on Mar 18, 2015 11:56:25 GMT -5
Be wary of how long you have to make the claim if you think you're going to. Pretty sure most have a reasonable notification time clause, probably worded better than that lol.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 11:59:54 GMT -5
Be wary of how long you have to make the claim if you think you're going to. Pretty sure most have a reasonable notification time clause, probably worded better than that lol. you have a year
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justme
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Post by justme on Mar 18, 2015 12:01:07 GMT -5
Be wary of how long you have to make the claim if you think you're going to. Pretty sure most have a reasonable notification time clause, probably worded better than that lol. you have a year That seems odd. Wonder how they know what was from the accident and what might have happened sometime during that year.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 12:04:15 GMT -5
That seems odd. Wonder how they know what was from the accident and what might have happened sometime during that year. I asked that same question when a woman tried to make a claim against my daughter after 5 months...that's how I found out you have up to a year.
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tskeeter
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Post by tskeeter on Mar 18, 2015 12:32:02 GMT -5
I suggest you either let the insurance company pay you for the car and total it, or sell it for whatever you can get. Assuming the car is an LX, Kelly Blue Book says a private party sale for a car in fair condition would be about $3,300. Your car is a long way from fair condition. So, your estimate of $2,500 might be a little optimistic. I'm guessing that as a trade in, a dealer would give you less that $1,500. If they would even take the car. You have a car that it appears would require nearly $2K to repair the accident damage. And then it sounds like the car needs another $2K of repairs to keep it drivable and to pass the state inspection. Putting $4K into a car that mght be worth about $2K doesn't seem like a good idea. If you think the insurance company offer is reasonable, save the $2K you'd have to put into other repairs, and use the money to make a down payment on something else. Sell the transmission? I wouldn't. I'm thinking that a used, not newly rebuilt, transmission for an '03 would be worth about $500 on e-bay if it was out of the car. So, if you took the transmission out, sold it for $500 and then sold the rest of car to a scrap metal dealer or junk yard for maybe $100, you'd have turned your $1,500 - $2,000 car into $600 and invested quite a bit of effort in removing the transmission. Since you can't replace the broken tail light lens on your own, I assume that you'd have to hire someone to remove the transmission from the car for you. By the time you did that, I'd bet that the cost of the labor to remove the transmission would be nearly as much, or maybe more than you could sell the transmission for. the car in the way the provides you the most cash and move on. it's an EX-V6. front headlight was replaced last night for $60 (DS' friend) so he is just going to keep driving the car until it has a major repair come up. just because it would need other repairs for someone else to title it doesn't mean I'm going to do all those repairs. I still haven't decided if I'm making a claim. we did file an incident report with the police in case I decide to. Well, the tail light, because they are broken more often than headlights, will probably cost you about $100 at the junk yard and you still need to get it installed to pass the state inspection. If the struts have failed, I think that they would have to be replaced to pas the inspection. I'd figure on about $500 per axle to replace stuts. Since the car will eventually stop running as the fuel injectors get more clogged, getting the injectors cleaned/replaced will probably be a necessity fairly soon. Cost - $250 -$1,000 depending on whether some or all of the injectors need to be replaced (and I suspect at least some of them will). Timing belts are timing belts. On most engines, if the timing belt breaks, you destroy the engine because timing belt isnt keeping the internal engine components in time any more. Destroyed pistons, valves, and probably cylinder damage so that replacing the engine would probably be necessary. So, if it's getting close to timing belt replacement mileage, I expect you're looking at something in the $500 - $1,000 range to replace the timing belt. And then there is the electrical stuff. While you might be able to avoid doing the electrical repairs, electrical work is often a black hole the car owners pour money into trying to fix. Flushing the power steering? Might be able to get away without doing it and save the $200 - $250. But, all in all, based on your description, it looks like it would probably cost between $1,000 - $2,000 just to keep the car on the road for the next year. While it's running, the car might be worth $2K or more. If you put minimal money into it so that it passes the inspection and run it until it stops, the car will be worth a few hundred to a auto wrecking yard. You could get lucky and be able to nurse the car along for another year or two with minimal investment in repairs. But, based on my 45 years wrenching on cars and your description of the condition of the car, to me it sounds like a very large black hole of repair bills. I stand by my advice to get rid of the car and use the insuance settlement and what you will probably avoid in repair bills for something that is in better shape.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 12:35:19 GMT -5
it's an EX-V6. front headlight was replaced last night for $60 (DS' friend) so he is just going to keep driving the car until it has a major repair come up. just because it would need other repairs for someone else to title it doesn't mean I'm going to do all those repairs. I still haven't decided if I'm making a claim. we did file an incident report with the police in case I decide to. Well, the tail light, because they are broken more often than headlights, will probably cost you about $100 at the junk yard and you still need to get it installed to pass the state inspection. If the struts have failed, I think that they would have to be replaced to pas the inspection. I'd figure on about $500 per axle to replace stuts. Since the car will eventually stop running as the fuel injectors get more clogged, getting the injectors cleaned/replaced will probably be a necessity fairly soon. Cost - $250 -$1,000 depending on whether some or all of the injectors need to be replaced (and I suspect at least some of them will). Timing belts are timing belts. On most engines, if the timing belt breaks, you destroy the engine because timing belt isnt keeping the internal engine components in time any more. Destroyed pistons, valves, and probably cylinder damage so that replacing the engine would probably be necessary. So, if it's getting close to timing belt replacement mileage, I expect you're looking at something in the $500 - $1,000 range to replace the timing belt. And then there is the electrical stuff. While you might be able to avoid doing the electrical repairs, electrical work is often a black hole the car owners pour money into trying to fix. Flushing the power steering? Might be able to get away without doing it and save the $200 - $250. But, all in all, based on your description, it looks like it would probably cost between $1,000 - $2,000 just to keep the car on the road for the next year. While it's running, the car might be worth $2K or more. If you put minimal money into it so that it passes the inspection and run it until it stops, the car will be worth a few hundred to a auto wrecking yard. You could get lucky and be able to nurse the car along for another year or two with minimal investment in repairs. But, based on my 45 years wrenching on cars and your description of the condition of the car, to me it sounds like a very large black hole of repair bills. I stand by my advice to get rid of the car and use the insuance settlement and what you will probably avoid in repair bills for something that is in better shape. it only needs to pass an inspection if it is being sold to someone else and retitled. MPL sent a link to a taillight for $40 (DS said he can install it). fuel filter was replaced the other night. so right now I can do absolutely nothing else to it and drive it until it dies/timing belt breaks/struts fail/etc - if it means I get 6 more months of use out of it, I'm good. other option is put in a claim, get the payout if they total, have to buy a car now, insurance rates potentially go up. still thinking on the decision.
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tskeeter
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Post by tskeeter on Mar 18, 2015 13:13:13 GMT -5
Well, the tail light, because they are broken more often than headlights, will probably cost you about $100 at the junk yard and you still need to get it installed to pass the state inspection. If the struts have failed, I think that they would have to be replaced to pas the inspection. I'd figure on about $500 per axle to replace stuts. Since the car will eventually stop running as the fuel injectors get more clogged, getting the injectors cleaned/replaced will probably be a necessity fairly soon. Cost - $250 -$1,000 depending on whether some or all of the injectors need to be replaced (and I suspect at least some of them will). Timing belts are timing belts. On most engines, if the timing belt breaks, you destroy the engine because timing belt isnt keeping the internal engine components in time any more. Destroyed pistons, valves, and probably cylinder damage so that replacing the engine would probably be necessary. So, if it's getting close to timing belt replacement mileage, I expect you're looking at something in the $500 - $1,000 range to replace the timing belt. And then there is the electrical stuff. While you might be able to avoid doing the electrical repairs, electrical work is often a black hole the car owners pour money into trying to fix. Flushing the power steering? Might be able to get away without doing it and save the $200 - $250. But, all in all, based on your description, it looks like it would probably cost between $1,000 - $2,000 just to keep the car on the road for the next year. While it's running, the car might be worth $2K or more. If you put minimal money into it so that it passes the inspection and run it until it stops, the car will be worth a few hundred to a auto wrecking yard. You could get lucky and be able to nurse the car along for another year or two with minimal investment in repairs. But, based on my 45 years wrenching on cars and your description of the condition of the car, to me it sounds like a very large black hole of repair bills. I stand by my advice to get rid of the car and use the insuance settlement and what you will probably avoid in repair bills for something that is in better shape. it only needs to pass an inspection if it is being sold to someone else and retitled. MPL sent a link to a taillight for $40 (DS said he can install it). fuel filter was replaced the other night. so right now I can do absolutely nothing else to it and drive it until it dies/timing belt breaks/struts fail/etc - if it means I get 6 more months of use out of it, I'm good. other option is put in a claim, get the payout if they total, have to buy a car now, insurance rates potentially go up. still thinking on the decision. Yeah, I find it or fix it decisions hard to make. How can you tell how much more fixing it will take? That's why I'm spending lots of time these days in the garage, laying under cars. Last couple of months: inner and outer tie rod ends, a split dust boot, a catalytic converter, an oil pan gasket (and a second one to do at the next oil change), a full set of shocks, replace transmission fluid (and a second one that's getting over due). Then there's the check engine light that came on in car #1 for a day a few weeks ago, and the check engine light that came on in car #2 yesterday. From a strict cash outlay point of view, continuing to fix them is the right decision. I find that when I get to the point that I'm tired of spending every weekend putting a car back together, I surrender and replace it.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 13:17:52 GMT -5
it only needs to pass an inspection if it is being sold to someone else and retitled. MPL sent a link to a taillight for $40 (DS said he can install it). fuel filter was replaced the other night. so right now I can do absolutely nothing else to it and drive it until it dies/timing belt breaks/struts fail/etc - if it means I get 6 more months of use out of it, I'm good. other option is put in a claim, get the payout if they total, have to buy a car now, insurance rates potentially go up. still thinking on the decision. Yeah, I find it or fix it decisions hard to make. How can you tell how much more fixing it will take? That's why I'm spending lots of time these days in the garage, laying under cars. Last couple of months: inner and outer tie rod ends, a split dust boot, a catalytic converter, an oil pan gasket (and a second one to do at the next oil change), a full set of shocks, replace transmission fluid (and a second one that's getting over due). Then there's the check engine light that came on in car #1 for a day a few weeks ago, and the check engine light that came on in car #2 yesterday. From a strict cash outlay point of view, continuing to fix them is the right decision. I find that when I get to the point that I'm tired of spending every weekend putting a car back together, I surrender and replace it. If this was my car (as in I drive it every day) I would have dumped it in a heartbeat. Carmax has a 2008 Civic that just had the price drop to under $10K - I'm seriously considering buying it now and just keeping it until the Accord dies (plus DS2 could learn to drive on it and then when the Accord dies DS1 and DS2 could share). I'm so tired of being an adult.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 13:47:15 GMT -5
it only needs to pass an inspection if it is being sold to someone else and retitled. MPL sent a link to a taillight for $40 (DS said he can install it). fuel filter was replaced the other night. so right now I can do absolutely nothing else to it and drive it until it dies/timing belt breaks/struts fail/etc - if it means I get 6 more months of use out of it, I'm good. other option is put in a claim, get the payout if they total, have to buy a car now, insurance rates potentially go up. still thinking on the decision. I googled installing them and you actually do have to drop the bumper on that year Accord to get the light in. Still doable, but kind of a PIA. www.driveaccord.net/forums/15-7th-generation/4797-how-replace-rear-tail-light-assembly.html#post65404
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2015 14:03:13 GMT -5
it only needs to pass an inspection if it is being sold to someone else and retitled. MPL sent a link to a taillight for $40 (DS said he can install it). fuel filter was replaced the other night. so right now I can do absolutely nothing else to it and drive it until it dies/timing belt breaks/struts fail/etc - if it means I get 6 more months of use out of it, I'm good. other option is put in a claim, get the payout if they total, have to buy a car now, insurance rates potentially go up. still thinking on the decision. I googled installing them and you actually do have to drop the bumper on that year Accord to get the light in. Still doable, but kind of a PIA. www.driveaccord.net/forums/15-7th-generation/4797-how-replace-rear-tail-light-assembly.html#post65404since the cop didn't say anything about the taillight (works but part of the clear cover is broken off) I'm not worried about replacing it. it just looks like crap (and now the front bumper is hanging off a bit)
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