oped
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 20, 2018 20:49:12 GMT -5
Posts: 4,676
|
Post by oped on Dec 13, 2019 16:38:10 GMT -5
Ok. So maybe you need an architect at this point? Because I don't think you realize that the dimensions aren't actually going to be what you have written there... and realistically you can't just 'make it all half a foot bigger' because framing and board lengths, etc. come in standard sizes... I don't mean to sound mean. I'm in year 3 of house building from scratch... We did the original plans and the architect took them from there and at that point it became easier to see the issues. The rooms might be close to that size, because she laid out a 32'x32' house at 30'x30'. She's got 4 walls in each directly ROUGHLY, so that'll eat up the additional 2' to get her to 32'. An architect is nice...but if she wants something basic most builders could take what she's got here, draw something better/more accurate with walls included at the correct sizing, and move on to building it (assuming architect-approved plans aren't required in her area). I'm mostly concerned with the small spaces which walled are going to take up more space from already small spaces... bathroom pantry, stairs, closet... closing in on all sides...
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 16:41:00 GMT -5
If you are planning on aging in place, replace tubs with a large shower with bench. You mentioned doorways, do not forget about hallways too, particularly angles, this is rough with wheelchairs and walkers. Also consider the installation of higher rise toilets and grab bars now. Try to imagine where you would need to grab to belt yourself off of a toilet, or to steady yourself in the shower. Position is everything, or they are useless. I would not eliminate the linen closet, but would expand to put the washer and dryer in upstairs from the get go. You may not have the luxury of advanced knowledge of mobility issues and it isn’t always so easy to get things like this done after the fact. It looks like you have both a large front and back porch and I would pull from that. I would so expand for a coat closet. About your kitchen, what I’d do is expand the table to become a breakfast bar perpendicular to the current counter where the door is. You might need to take a foot from the LR. This gives you additional counter space that can be used as a table, and gives you someplace to drop groceries as you bring them in. I would consider putting in a central vacuum line and heated floors. About floors, wheelchairs are the death of carpet and using a walker is harder to use on carpet. So you want to pay attention to your floors. Heated floors will minimize the need for throw rigs, which are trip hazards. I know things can happen and change everything on a dime, but, if things went well, it would be 20+ years before I'd need to worry about a wheelchair. By that time, I figure things would be ready for a remodel anyway, so I don't want things like grab bars and high toilets until I would need them. No one in my family has ever been wheelchair bound until well into their 90s, and I figure if I make it that far, I'll more realistically be in a home, or it really will be time for a remodel. I know, wishful thinking (I know it wasn't something you had planned to happen!) but I want things to work for me now as well. For many reasons, I really don't want to expand the house bigger, so working with what I have is more ideal. I can still put shelves over a W/D, or do a stacking unit so I can have shelves next to it, so don't have to eliminate all storage space there. I'll also be able to eliminate my "work wardrobe" by then, freeing up more space (those clothes are basically a uniform, but takes up quite a bit of space. I won't need more "other" clothes in the future than I have now, so once they are gone, they are gone). I guess I just don't really get the concept of a coat closet, never having had one (and most of the ones I've seen have just been packed with "stuff" rather than coats or other things that need to be handy in the living room). I really don't want to make the house bigger for something like that, since I'm happy with my little coat and shoe rack. The table is in the drawing because it's one thing I'm 100% taking to the new house. I love my table. I even measured it out to make sure I had my kitchen big enough to accommodate it. I have thought about a butcher block type counter on wheels though, that could act as an island and extra counter space, but be moved around where I need/want it instead of being a permanent fixture, just to give me a little more flexibility there. Floors will be wood, because I hate carpet. I usually wear socks in the house anyway, but will have to check out the feasibility of heated floors. I'll bring it up with the contractor when I get that far.
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 16:53:28 GMT -5
Ok. So maybe you need an architect at this point? Because I don't think you realize that the dimensions aren't actually going to be what you have written there... and realistically you can't just 'make it all half a foot bigger' because framing and board lengths, etc. come in standard sizes... I 100% don't think this is the final version, and will need someone to "make it real". It's more the layout than the exact measurements of everything. Trust me, I get that, but am apparently not explaining it well enough. My main thing is that every floor plan I've found sucks for what I want, so I made my own. I do want to get the main things as close to possible so I don't get thrown for a loop (like the stairway working out, I went through multiple variations to find something that should be very close to what is required for code, door sizes, which I still screwed up, etc).
I don't mean to sound mean. I'm in year 3 of house building from scratch... We did the original plans and the architect took them from there and at that point it became easier to see the issues. The flow of the rooms seems nice and it seems to hit all your marks... This has been my main goal! I know some of it (back porch access) might seem a bit weird to some, and might affect resale, but it's more important that it works for me.If you have an extra room in the basement... do you need an extra room upstairs? Could that all just be open or half walled with your bedroom? Do you need an extra full bath? Or just an extra half bath? I've given that second room a lot of thought, and it's one area where I went with "purpose and, I guess, resale..." My son should be moved out by then, so it doesn't need to be a bedroom. So it will be my quilt room. Eventually, I'm going to have a dog, maybe a cat, and I want to be able to close the door to that room. Even as a quilt room a closet will be very handy, as will quick and easy access to the bathroom. I did consider making that just a partial bath, but if it does need to be used as a bedroom for some reason, it would be nice to not have to go downstairs for that person to shower (after 14 years, I just finally got a shower over the tub in the main bathroom in my house).
When you say you don't want to share your stuff, do you mean toilet? Or just bath area? Extreme introvert with a very large personal space bubble. I don't want anyone in my space. I can't wait to have a bathroom that is 100% mine only (I'm close to that now that there is a shower on the main floor). As a kid, we were not allowed in my grandparent's bedroom, ever. I don't know if I even went in there when they had it up for sale. That corner of the house will pretty much have an invisible "Danger! Do not enter!" sign. The quilt room will be somewhat shared when I have my mom do something with me, quilt friends over, etc.
|
|
thyme4change
Community Leader
Joined: Dec 26, 2010 13:54:08 GMT -5
Posts: 40,890
Member is Online
|
Post by thyme4change on Dec 13, 2019 16:56:29 GMT -5
Your bedroom closets look really small. I know you said you are okay with small closets, but it is hard to change later. I can't tell the actual size, maybe they are bigger than they look? I can't imagine anyone living with less than 3 linear feet of bedroom closet.
I would also try to find space for the laundry on the main floor. My Grandma had a really hard time getting into and out of her basement with a basket full of laundry. I've always lived on a single floor, so stairs for laundry seem like a real PIA to me.
|
|
hoops902
Senior Associate
Joined: Dec 22, 2010 13:21:29 GMT -5
Posts: 11,978
|
Post by hoops902 on Dec 13, 2019 16:59:02 GMT -5
Your bedroom closets look really small. I know you said you are okay with small closets, but it is hard to change later. I can't tell the actual size, maybe they are bigger than they look? I can't imagine anyone living with less than 3 linear feet of bedroom closet. I would also try to find space for the laundry on the main floor. My Grandma had a really hard time getting into and out of her basement with a basket full of laundry. I've always lived on a single floor, so stairs for laundry seem like a real PIA to me. This is where I think taking both bedroom closets and making them the master closet makes a ton of sense (or I think the new plan might be making those 2 closets very shallow but back-to-back and smaller since the doors need to widen for the bedroom entry). Then pushing the pantry and garage door down to make room for a small-ish closet in the bedroom where the current pantry is.
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:00:06 GMT -5
Oh, yeah, that's drawing limitations as well. Bathrooms are all bigger than my current bathrooms, so I know it will work for me "in real life". Are the doors/things in the same places as well? Sometimes those pesky doors throw the bathroom off, even though the size is larger than what you already have. It's not just the size, but also the configuration (fwiw, I think yours seem fine most likely, small...but fine, just sometimes the actual layout appears incorrect which is simply a drawback of having 1' squares to work in). Another trick I sometimes employ with excel if I have troubles with appliances, bathroom fixtures, etc (which I don't think you do) is I print off just a wall design of the house, then cut out the right size for those things and lay them out on the printed wall design. Helps being able to move things around quickly/easily rather than changing excel just to see a different layout. Master bath is mirror image of the one I have now (but is larger and doesn't have the chimney cutting out a corner). The other main floor bathroom may work better with a pocket door instead of one that swings near the toilet. The pocket door from the bedroom is at least in an ok position. The cutting things out was going to be my next step. I go back and forth on what I'll have in the living room. At minimum, I want a good sized couch for napping, but that will limit what else I can have in there. I think it's the room I'll have to play with furniture layout the most.
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:03:58 GMT -5
Ok. So maybe you need an architect at this point? Because I don't think you realize that the dimensions aren't actually going to be what you have written there... and realistically you can't just 'make it all half a foot bigger' because framing and board lengths, etc. come in standard sizes... I don't mean to sound mean. I'm in year 3 of house building from scratch... We did the original plans and the architect took them from there and at that point it became easier to see the issues. The rooms might be close to that size, because she laid out a 32'x32' house at 30'x30'. She's got 4 walls in each directly ROUGHLY, so that'll eat up the additional 2' to get her to 32'. An architect is nice...but if she wants something basic most builders could take what she's got here, draw something better/more accurate with walls included at the correct sizing, and move on to building it (assuming architect-approved plans aren't required in her area). Architect-approved plans are not required here, so hoping to have a builder who will be willing to work with my drawing and turn it into something that really works. I have a coworker who knows a really good one. You pay for it, but after a recent contractor experience, it would be worth the extra money to have someone my extremely picky coworker would trust to do a job for himself. And, when you don't have to deal with all the extra bs a lesser contractor ends up costing you, it may cost less in the long run. And easing pain/frustration is worth paying for.
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:15:24 GMT -5
The rooms might be close to that size, because she laid out a 32'x32' house at 30'x30'. She's got 4 walls in each directly ROUGHLY, so that'll eat up the additional 2' to get her to 32'. An architect is nice...but if she wants something basic most builders could take what she's got here, draw something better/more accurate with walls included at the correct sizing, and move on to building it (assuming architect-approved plans aren't required in her area). I'm mostly concerned with the small spaces which walled are going to take up more space from already small spaces... bathroom pantry, stairs, closet... closing in on all sides... Pantry will be open shelving (I can put a curtain over it if it looks ugly). Stairs will have a half wall on the living room side, railing only if I can get away with it, so the living room will feel a little more open than just the size of the floor. And, I'm willing to push out a little in order to keep the room sizes as they are. I just don't want to jump from 32 x 32 to 40 x 40. Considering I'm going to have this entire house to myself, the basement is nice and open, and I prefer cave-like (with lots of windows) to airy and wide open, I should be ok. The log house I was going to have was 28x28, outside dimensions. It did have a loft, but I still felt fine standing inside the main floor area. I've also lived in an even smaller house (though with one less bathroom on the main floor), so I know the small space will work for me. That one was 900 square feet upstairs, with a half basement, but the layout was absolutely awful, and there were three of us.
|
|
oped
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 20, 2018 20:49:12 GMT -5
Posts: 4,676
|
Post by oped on Dec 13, 2019 17:17:04 GMT -5
Wait... which is yours the 11 x 13... get rid of the hall door. Its your bathroom... although the layout of the other one is actually more master like... if you get rid of the hall door it will help a lot... and well, pocket doors have to go somewhere... again not sure the space is there to do one in the hall as it.
So people have to go through your quilt room to get to the bathroom you will share?
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:20:59 GMT -5
Your bedroom closets look really small. I know you said you are okay with small closets, but it is hard to change later. I can't tell the actual size, maybe they are bigger than they look? I can't imagine anyone living with less than 3 linear feet of bedroom closet. I would also try to find space for the laundry on the main floor. My Grandma had a really hard time getting into and out of her basement with a basket full of laundry. I've always lived on a single floor, so stairs for laundry seem like a real PIA to me. Closets were drawn 4' x 4', so bigger than 3 linear feet. However, I think I'm going to go with back-to-back and make them longer, but not as deep. Very similar to a normal closet I have in this house, and I'd be happy with that. My current bedroom actually doesn't even have a closet, so this will be more than I am used to. My current W/D is in the basement, and while I'm working, my bedroom will probably be the basement one so it will be nice and dark all the time. I do have the linen closet set up to move the W/D onto the main floor when I don't want to deal with stairs for laundry anymore (and I move into the main-floor bedroom full-time). I'll sacrifice the main-floor closet space at that time, but I'll still have some room in there, and will need to access the W/D far more than I would the closet. I really wanted a laundry chute, but the code requirements for that are too much of a nightmare.
|
|
thyme4change
Community Leader
Joined: Dec 26, 2010 13:54:08 GMT -5
Posts: 40,890
Member is Online
|
Post by thyme4change on Dec 13, 2019 17:27:46 GMT -5
Your bedroom closets look really small. I know you said you are okay with small closets, but it is hard to change later. I can't tell the actual size, maybe they are bigger than they look? I can't imagine anyone living with less than 3 linear feet of bedroom closet. I would also try to find space for the laundry on the main floor. My Grandma had a really hard time getting into and out of her basement with a basket full of laundry. I've always lived on a single floor, so stairs for laundry seem like a real PIA to me. Closets were drawn 4' x 4', so bigger than 3 linear feet. However, I think I'm going to go with back-to-back and make them longer, but not as deep. Very similar to a normal closet I have in this house, and I'd be happy with that. My current bedroom actually doesn't even have a closet, so this will be more than I am used to. My current W/D is in the basement, and while I'm working, my bedroom will probably be the basement one so it will be nice and dark all the time. I do have the linen closet set up to move the W/D onto the main floor when I don't want to deal with stairs for laundry anymore (and I move into the main-floor bedroom full-time). I'll sacrifice the main-floor closet space at that time, but I'll still have some room in there, and will need to access the W/D far more than I would the closet. I really wanted a laundry chute, but the code requirements for that are too much of a nightmare. Ah. I couldn't tell the size of the closets. Seems like plenty of room. 😀
|
|
oped
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 20, 2018 20:49:12 GMT -5
Posts: 4,676
|
Post by oped on Dec 13, 2019 17:31:42 GMT -5
How about closet on your bedroom side, and built in shelves on the quilting room side... give you more closet space and probably more functional for the quilting room side...
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:32:28 GMT -5
Wait... which is yours the 11 x 13... get rid of the hall door. Its your bathroom... although the layout of the other one is actually more master like... if you get rid of the hall door it will help a lot... and well, pocket doors have to go somewhere... again not sure the space is there to do one in the hall as it. So people have to go through your quilt room to get to the bathroom you will share? No, master bedroom would be the smaller of the two, with its own private bath. I get that they are usually bigger, but I had to make it smaller to make everything else work out better. I had them starting out at the same size, but sacrificed a foot of bedroom space for a foot of living room space, and to also even the wall of the kitchen and living room to so they line up. This would be better for the roof/ceiling line (not sure what it's called-- partial scissors truss? Angled along the roofline over the living room and kitchen, possibly with exposed beams, but then a flat/level ceiling over the back half of the house). I don't plan to use the attic at all, I just want a somewhat vaulted ceiling in the front of the house, but a flat ceiling in the bedrooms/bathrooms. If that doesn't work, then just flat ceilings everywhere, but I still thought it would be better if the walls lined up, and I had to make the master bedroom smaller in order to get the hall closet wide enough to fit a washer and dryer. If I did a stacked unit, it would have been fine, but I didn't want to be limited to the stacked unit. The other bathroom will be accessed by the hallway and the quilt room. The larger room works out better for the quilt room anyway, because I'll have a quilting frame set up in there, which will take up most of the wall that meets with the garage and patio.
|
|
thyme4change
Community Leader
Joined: Dec 26, 2010 13:54:08 GMT -5
Posts: 40,890
Member is Online
|
Post by thyme4change on Dec 13, 2019 17:37:25 GMT -5
11x13 is big enough that you could put an IKEA wardrobe on the wall that is up against the kitchen. And you could do it later.
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:39:10 GMT -5
How about closet on your bedroom side, and built in shelves on the quilting room side... give you more closet space and probably more functional for the quilting room side... When it's my quilting room, I'd just have shelving in the closet, not bothering with a rod. For bedroom potential though, an actual closet would probably be better. Something to think about though, and a future buyer could always add the closet if they wanted it (or it could be added before the place was sold). I think the back-to-back would probably work out better for that though anyway.
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:46:47 GMT -5
Ok, so I'd be fine with a bringing in a wardrobe for the spare bedroom/quilt room, and shelving instead of a built-in closet. Closet 2'+ deep (for master bedroom) and shelving 18" deep (deep enough for my sewing machine, folded fabrics, etc, but not so deep that things get lost behind each other, or I jab my armpit into the shelf to reach the back) for the quilt room. And then, if I really wanted it, a wardrobe. Code doesn't require that a bedroom have a closet, so it could still be billed as one. It would save one wall's worth of space, so I could push the back of the master bedroom's closet toward the spare bedroom/quilt room. Then, if eventual new owner wants a closet there, that's their issue I know I've turned down some ideas, but this really is all helping me!
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 17:55:45 GMT -5
Oh, while we're at it... What is the "ideal" ceiling height? My current main floor ceiling is 8'. This has been fine for now, but it seems too low for a ceiling fan (I'd like some ceiling fans in new house since I won't have central air). The living room and kitchen would have a sloped ceiling, but bedrooms would be flat.
My current basement ceiling is 7' 2". I just noticed how low they are when I dragged a very heavy elliptical down there (so heavy I had to take it apart, and still needed my son to help me. I pulled out my old elliptical by myself). Ceiling is just tall enough for me to use it, but my son cannot. What is a typical basement ceiling height? I do like that I can change lamps without a stool or ladder, but I'm sure 7' 2" is probably pretty low.
|
|
oped
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 20, 2018 20:49:12 GMT -5
Posts: 4,676
|
Post by oped on Dec 13, 2019 17:56:28 GMT -5
Ok. The biggest issue I see with the master is that you don't have enough room there for the doorway. You'd need to recess a bit and that makes the room even smaller or starts to mess with the closet. I'd say make the extra bathroom just a 1/2. This makes it easier to fit things in the space, but that's up to you. I can't imagine 3 tubs in a house ultimately for 1 person... maybe a shower if you feel it needs it? 2 doorways is the issue, although the pocket on one side helps. I did run the actual 32 X 32 with walls and my preliminary isn't as far off as I was concerned. There are places you have to be a tad smaller, but the biggest issues i see on my plan are 1) the bedroom door/closet etc i already mentioned and 2 the fridge cornered to that wall looks too closed off to me? I was playing with walls a bit so its not exact, but I can scan the pic if you want. I'm going to work on the 'back of house' ... because husband went to get daughter and its raining and i have to keep busy and don't want to clean
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 18:40:34 GMT -5
Ok. The biggest issue I see with the master is that you don't have enough room there for the doorway. You'd need to recess a bit and that makes the room even smaller or starts to mess with the closet. I'd say make the extra bathroom just a 1/2. This makes it easier to fit things in the space, but that's up to you. I can't imagine 3 tubs in a house ultimately for 1 person... maybe a shower if you feel it needs it? 2 doorways is the issue, although the pocket on one side helps. I did run the actual 32 X 32 with walls and my preliminary isn't as far off as I was concerned. There are places you have to be a tad smaller, but the biggest issues i see on my plan are 1) the bedroom door/closet etc i already mentioned and 2 the fridge cornered to that wall looks too closed off to me? I was playing with walls a bit so its not exact, but I can scan the pic if you want. I'm going to work on the 'back of house' ... because husband went to get daughter and its raining and i have to keep busy and don't want to clean Yeah, if I do the closets back-to-back, I can shorten them quite a bit (making it 6' long would really open up the doorway area). I'm definitely open to making the "public" bathroom just a walk in shower. If a guest wanted to use a tub, they could use the one downstairs or in the master bedroom (depending on which one is my bedroom at the time). I don't love my fridge location, but I had a hard time figuring where else to put it. I had to mess with things a lot to get the space between the corner of the bathroom and the corner of the fridge to not feel like a choke point. My current fridge is 30" deep, so that does give allow for a little more room than in the drawing, but not much. It seems weird to have the fridge next to the front door. I'd rather not have it right next to the stove. My issues with the kitchen... I hate galley kitchens. I don't want to stare at a wall while at the sink like I do now. My parent's sink faces a window and I love that. While I aim for things to be as dishwasher friendly as possible, I still spend a lot of time standing at the sink (maybe this will be cut down once I'm the only one using the kitchen?) I want to maximize counter space (but keep my table) since I do a lot of cooking. I also do a lot of canning (so it's nice to be able to spread out the jars, etc). I'd like to keep my kitchen aid and espresso machine out (unless I can find a movable shelf that would either drop the KA down from an upper cabinet, or that will lift over and out of a lower cabinet. I may have a friend build my cabinets, so if something like this exists, I could do it). I don't like high microwaves, so the microwave has to be on the counter too. I'd like to keep my hutch, and where it is seems like the only place good for it.
|
|
Deleted
Joined: Nov 26, 2024 20:51:29 GMT -5
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2019 19:36:32 GMT -5
AppleLook at something called "comfort height toilets." They absolutely look like regular toilets, but they are simply higher. Honestly, you will love them. You will never want to sit on a squatty toilet again. You keep talking about updating and/or remodeling. Don't think of it like that if you are planning on aging in place in this home. Remodeling bathrooms in particular is really expensive. I probably wouldn't put a grab bar by the toilet, but definitely in the bath. Do you really want to build this home with remodeling in mind?
|
|
Cheesy FL-Vol
Junior Associate
"Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing." -- Helen Keller
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 16:13:50 GMT -5
Posts: 7,407
Mini-Profile Background: {"image":"","color":""}
|
Post by Cheesy FL-Vol on Dec 13, 2019 19:50:26 GMT -5
Your option 2 basement will be more efficient for your plumbing.
ETA: I see blueprints all the time where Accessible living units have extra reinforcement in the walls pre-done for grab bars. This way if a resident with that need moved into a unit, grab bars can be added without renovations needed.
|
|
oped
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 20, 2018 20:49:12 GMT -5
Posts: 4,676
|
Post by oped on Dec 13, 2019 20:11:39 GMT -5
So I like paper and pens first... here's a rough idea if you do an extra half bath... you could fit 2 pocket doors like you wanted.
|
|
hoops902
Senior Associate
Joined: Dec 22, 2010 13:21:29 GMT -5
Posts: 11,978
|
Post by hoops902 on Dec 13, 2019 20:23:29 GMT -5
Apple Look at something called "comfort height toilets." They absolutely look like regular toilets, but they are simply higher. Honestly, you will love them. You will never want to sit on a squatty toilet again.You keep talking about updating and/or remodeling. Don't think of it like that if you are planning on aging in place in this home. Remodeling bathrooms in particular is really expensive. I probably wouldn't put a grab bar by the toilet, but definitely in the bath. Do you really want to build this home with remodeling in mind? Ditto this! At 6'6", all I've ever bought were "comfort height"...so nice!
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 20:23:55 GMT -5
Apple Look at something called "comfort height toilets." They absolutely look like regular toilets, but they are simply higher. Honestly, you will love them. You will never want to sit on a squatty toilet again. You keep talking about updating and/or remodeling. Don't think of it like that if you are planning on aging in place in this home. Remodeling bathrooms in particular is really expensive. I probably wouldn't put a grab bar by the toilet, but definitely in the bath. Do you really want to build this home with remodeling in mind? My old toilet was replaced with a "comfort height" toilet, and I hate it :/ I requested the standard ("old") height, but the contractor sucked. I have long legs, but I feel like I'm having to be on my toes. I want to build the house with easy modification in mind. The remodeling would be fairly minimal-- move washer and dryer upstairs (hookups already done, so it's a simple removal of some shelves and moving the appliances. Maybe just have the piping in place, but capped so I don't need to worry about a leaky valve, then remove cap and add a union.). Then the bathroom, which after (hopefully) 20+ years may need it anyway (although my bathroom was original to the 1950s until I just had to redo it). My plan is to make it exactly what I want now, but also make it extremely easy to upgrade/modify later (so, all the structural things in place, like making sure doorways are wide enough, wide hallway, etc, so there is no structural tear down). Having what could be almost full living quarters in the basement, even though I don't need it, so that I can have the live-in help if I require it. I don't want to have build an addition later. Hiring someone to remove a tub and install a walk-in shower isn't as big of a concern for me. I don't need an "old people home" while I'm 40, I just want it to easily become an old people home with minimal work later. Some houses just don't have any easy way for them to be lived in by older people or those with disabilities without extensive structural work, moving walls, etc. That is the part I'm trying to avoid. If I'm like every person in my family so far, it's going to be at least 40 years before any of these modifications are needed (although moving the W/D upstairs would probably happen much sooner). I don't want to spend those 40 years living with a setup I don't like as much, just because I'll need it eventually.
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 20:28:53 GMT -5
Your option 2 basement will be more efficient for your plumbing. ETA: I see blueprints all the time where Accessible living units have extra reinforcement in the walls pre-done for grab bars. This way if a resident with that need moved into a unit, grab bars can be added without renovations needed. Yeah, the plumbing is pretty much why I came up with option 2, but it makes the basement feel smaller to me. If the estimate from the builder is significant between the two options, that could sway me. Good idea about the reinforcement before hand! Would be a lot easier to mount something to the wall without having to open it all up first.
|
|
Tiny
Senior Associate
Joined: Dec 29, 2010 21:22:34 GMT -5
Posts: 13,508
|
Post by Tiny on Dec 13, 2019 20:30:03 GMT -5
The plan doesn't have a clear path to the back yard OR the patio. I'm assuming the bedrooms are opening up out on the "porch" for easy access to, say, I don't know -- the hot tub and/or pool that will be in your yard? You need an additional way for your family/guests to get to the backyard/hot tub/pool. If you want to use a bathroom on the first floor - you have to go into a bedroom to use one. I'm sure this will be awkward for your guests. There's no way to get from the kitchen to the patio. I assume you don't ever grill? It will also be quite a trek from the hot tub/yard to get a cold beverage or snack. There is no wall space in your livingroom... were does the TV go? the couch? chairs? they will be in front of windows OR blocking a path thru the room. Here's an example of an unfortunate floor plan. I'm sure the builder/designer was proud and happy with this house: See this seemingly awesome house in Florida with a River view and a spacious backyard for a pool/patio etc (hint, there's only ONE door into this house... think about kids and dogs...) www.realtor.com/realestateandhomes-detail/4070-E-River-Dr_Fort-Myers_FL_33916_M54140-95644?view=qv
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 20:44:09 GMT -5
So I like paper and pens first... here's a rough idea if you do an extra half bath... you could fit 2 pocket doors like you wanted. That does spark an idea... Guest bathroom: Remove tub. Put in stand up shower where you have "toilet" written, leave toilet and sink how I had them drawn. Now the wall is shaped like you have drawn, so it leaves a lot more space between corner of bathroom and whatever is on the far side by the garage door. Play with fridge placement a little more to see which would be better (my fridge is currently away from any counters and it's a bit annoying-- I end up balancing things on the door with sometimes messy results. Because I'm lazy enough I don't want to move a few feet to the nearest counter.) (and, just a note, the master bath is actually almost 10' x 5.5-6')
|
|
Cheesy FL-Vol
Junior Associate
"Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing." -- Helen Keller
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 16:13:50 GMT -5
Posts: 7,407
Mini-Profile Background: {"image":"","color":""}
|
Post by Cheesy FL-Vol on Dec 13, 2019 20:48:24 GMT -5
Something else to consider if you are building for future aging in place with the possibility of wheelchair needs, how will you function in your bathrooms & kitchen at a wheelchair height?
|
|
oped
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 20, 2018 20:49:12 GMT -5
Posts: 4,676
|
Post by oped on Dec 13, 2019 20:50:32 GMT -5
So I like paper and pens first... here's a rough idea if you do an extra half bath... you could fit 2 pocket doors like you wanted. That does spark an idea... Guest bathroom: Remove tub. Put in stand up shower where you have "toilet" written, leave toilet and sink how I had them drawn. Now the wall is shaped like you have drawn, so it leaves a lot more space between corner of bathroom and whatever is on the far side by the garage door. Play with fridge placement a little more to see which would be better (my fridge is currently away from any counters and it's a bit annoying-- I end up balancing things on the door with sometimes messy results. Because I'm lazy enough I don't want to move a few feet to the nearest counter.) (and, just a note, the master bath is actually almost 10' x 5.5-6') Yep... was 9 I think and I inverted lol... it’s rough. I tried with shower there but then you have a hard time doing 2 doors. You could put a small counter where the hutch is and move the hutch... shorten another counter, or put it instead of a pantry...
|
|
Apple
Junior Associate
Always travel with a sense of humor
Joined: Dec 17, 2010 15:51:04 GMT -5
Posts: 9,938
Mini-Profile Name Color: dc0e29
|
Post by Apple on Dec 13, 2019 21:06:36 GMT -5
The plan doesn't have a clear path to the back yard OR the patio. I'm assuming the bedrooms are opening up out on the "porch" for easy access to, say, I don't know -- the hot tub and/or pool that will be in your yard? You need an additional way for your family/guests to get to the backyard/hot tub/pool. Honestly don't plan to have guests often, so when I do, they can walk through the garage, around the garage, etc. There is no real backyard, there are just "acres". Lots of trees, will not be planting grass. The bedrooms pretty much just open up to the porch because I want a nice, quiet place where I can sit and drink my coffee, curled up in a quilt, not facing the road or neighbors.If you want to use a bathroom on the first floor - you have to go into a bedroom to use one. I'm sure this will be awkward for your guests. The bathroom on the right hand side has a door to the hallway, and a pocket door to the bedroom.There's no way to get from the kitchen to the patio. I assume you don't ever grill? It will also be quite a trek from the hot tub/yard to get a cold beverage or snack. I actually do quite a bit of smoking/grilling. I want to have an outdoor kitchen on the patio, and a "garage fridge", so the trek shouldn't be quite as bad as it looks. To get a better path, I'd have to remove the garage, or build a breezeway between the house and garage. So, I'll just settle for cutting through the garage.There is no wall space in your livingroom... were does the TV go? the couch? chairs? they will be in front of windows OR blocking a path thru the room. I don't have a tv in my living room, and my couch and loveseat sit on the outside walls beneath my windows. All I need in there is a couch, loveseat (or recliner), a coffee table, and my hippo footstool. And maybe a trunk in the corner like I have now.
I did think about "what if I want a tv in the living room?", and decided that one could go in front of the stairway railing if I really felt I needed it (yea for flat screens!). Or I could build an entertainment center between the living room and kitchen (but I'd rather not).Here's an example of an unfortunate floor plan. I'm sure the builder/designer was proud and happy with this house: See this seemingly awesome house in Florida with a River view and a spacious backyard for a pool/patio etc (hint, there's only ONE door into this house... think about kids and dogs...) www.realtor.com/realestateandhomes-detail/4070-E-River-Dr_Fort-Myers_FL_33916_M54140-95644?view=qvYikes! My little house is going to have 4 doors... Floor plans can be so hard, especially for small buildings. I think that's why I haven't found one I like.
|
|