Gently critique my house plans (updated drawings post #76)

[Apple]

Not professional drawings!

I've looked at a ton of house plans, and have not found anything I'd be happy with, so I came up with my own. Because I did this in excel, wall space is not accounted for, but final size should be right about 32'x32'.

Things to consider:
I do not want a large house, but I don't want a tiny house either.

All bathrooms are larger than either of my current bathrooms (so, no, they would not be too small). I also do not like people in my space, which is the reason for two bathrooms on the main floor. I'll sacrifice the space for that, even though I do not plan to have guests often.

I want to die here, if possible, so I want the house set up so I can age-in-place. While fairly young and don't care about stairs, the washer and dryer will be in the basement, allowing me to have a nice sized closet on the main floor. As I get older, the W/D will be moved into that closet (which will be easy because it will already be outfitted with plumbing and electrical hookups).

The "hallway" should be wide enough for a walker/wheelchair.

The basement could be used as living quarters for a live-in caretaker.

I want stairs into the basement to be a straight shot. I may move the garage wall to have the stairs be inside the garage instead of outside. Undecided.

This is for one person, and the second bedroom would be my quilt/craft room. Before I retire, I'd probably take the basement bedroom, because it would be nice and dark for my night shifts.

I definitely need heating. Summer is more mild on the mountain, so I'd only need a window unit on a hot day. Not sure I'd bother with a heatpump, but I wouldn't rule it out. No natural gas, so can't do the central air ac/furnace I currently have and love.

I used to want an upstairs (or at least a loft) so I could have a balcony (I'd love a balcony). But, I think going with just a main floor and basement will be more practical. If I really need a balcony, I can add one to the shop. Instead, I've settled on a nice back porch with doors from the bedrooms.

I'm good with small closets. I really don't want to spend more space on storing more stuff. I can utilize basement storage, under-bed storage, etc, for out of season clothing. I have very few items that need to be hung in the closet. I really want less stuff overall.

I'm not hung up on resale value, I want the house to be built for me, not for some person who may buy it in the future. That said, it could be the perfect place for a bachelor who likes to work on things-- it will have a decent sized garage, a pole barn, and a large shop, on 8.8 acres, and they can have it when I'm dead (my son currently has no interest in living in that area, but that could change in the future, he'll likely inherit it and get to decide then).

This will be less than half the size of my current house (which also has a full basement), so will be a big adjustment. But, I'll have a lot more land, a garage, and outbuildings, so yea!

I've given up on the log home I once wanted. However, I have a lot of logs, so my plan is to drag those into a clearing and DIY a little log cabin where I can just sit and read or lounge. No other real purpose but to have the log cabin I have wanted as long as I can remember. Might have a little fireplace and a compost toilet with a gravity-fed sink (water tank outside).

I've tried to maximize counter space in the kitchen since I cook a lot. Also made sure to have a small pantry. I could have a small pantry set up downstairs if I really wanted (My current pantry is downstairs, so...)


Main floor:



Preferred basement layout:



Optional basement layout in case my preferred one won't work for some reason:



I've always loved a farmhouse style. The right side would be the garage, not an extension. I want it similar to this, down to the red with white trim, and a dark grey metal roof (roof line above stairs may need adjusted for snow shed).


ETA: Post #76 has some updated main floor options.

[obelisk]

I would put the washer and dryer in the garage with a sink.

[snapdragon]

I really like how you drew this up but I have a question --- I don't see a coat closet. Are you going to hang up hooks instead or will you mostly be coming in through the kitchen door and will a entry zone be done there? 

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 14:46:35 GMT -5 obelisk said:

I would put the washer and dryer in the garage with a sink.

Thanks!

I've actually considered that as an option in the past, but completely forgot!  My biggest concern would be the need to then heat the garage so pipes don't freeze (or, at the very least, heat tape the pipes and install a frost-free valve).  I will have a utility sink out there at the very least, so guess I'd be dealing with piping at that point either way.

ETA: this would be very handy for a clothesline though, and I miss having a clothesline.

[hoops902]

So 1.  I love this kind of thing, always have.  2.  I'm doing the same for a large remodel (keeping the foundation only) on my mom's house.  3.  I would recommend the website Homestyler.com.  I've tried a bunch of apps and sites to get decent self-drawings, and it's by far my favorite.  I download the drawings to paint and add in circuits/plumbing/etc.  

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 14:48:30 GMT -5 snapdragon said:

I really like how you drew this up but I have a question --- I don't see a coat closet. Are you going to hang up hooks instead or will you mostly be coming in through the kitchen door and will a entry zone be done there? 

I've never had a coat closet!  I've always just had hooks or a "station" (currently have a setup that is a rack with coat hooks and two little "shelves" for shoes/boots that's just inside the front door).  So I'll probably just stay with that.  I figure I'll also have a mini mud-room area outside the kitchen door that leads to the garage.

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 14:49:06 GMT -5 NoNamePerson said:

I’ll have to check it out on PC but unless I am overlooking it I would have a large walk in shower for old age . I love designing a home! Right down to which way doors swing, where outlets are placed! OK I’ll shut up. I just get excited when someone decides to build. 

You're hired!

I've gone back and forth with the master bathroom.  Might make it a tub with a shower for now, and when I get old enough, just convert it to a walk in shower.  I'd still have a tub in the house that way, and figure by that time I might need a little remodel anyway.

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 14:53:00 GMT -5 hoops902 said:

So 1.  I love this kind of thing, always have.  2.  I'm doing the same for a large remodel (keeping the foundation only) on my mom's house.  3.  I would recommend the website Homestyler.com.  I've tried a bunch of apps and sites to get decent self-drawings, and it's by far my favorite.  I download the drawings to paint and add in circuits/plumbing/etc.  

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll have to check that out.  So far my plan has been to just have this and hand it to a builder and say "make this work".  I love looking at plans, and there are so many great ones for larger houses, but small house plans have been duds (galley kitchens, large bathroom, bad doorway placements, etc)

[NoNamePerson]

Dec 13, 2019 14:56:00 GMT -5 Apple said:

Dec 13, 2019 14:49:06 GMT -5 NoNamePerson said:

I’ll have to check it out on PC but unless I am overlooking it I would have a large walk in shower for old age . I love designing a home! Right down to which way doors swing, where outlets are placed! OK I’ll shut up. I just get excited when someone decides to build. 

You're hired!

I've gone back and forth with the master bathroom.  Might make it a tub with a shower for now, and when I get old enough, just convert it to a walk in shower.  I'd still have a tub in the house that way, and figure by that time I might need a little remodel anyway.

 I went to edit post and deleted it in error! Sure you want to hire me.     

[Deleted]

Dec 13, 2019 14:49:06 GMT -5 NoNamePerson said:

I’ll have to check it out on PC but unless I am overlooking it I would have a large walk in shower for old age . I love designing a home! Right down to which way doors swing, where outlets are placed! OK I’ll shut up. I just get excited when someone decides to build. 

I agree with the shower for old age.  See if you can design it with as low a threshhold as possible.

This house has a loft, which is totally useless because it is accessible by what is basically a ladder.  I can't even store stuff up there because it is too difficult to climb up and down the ladder holding something.  

[hoops902]

Ok so my observations on the layout (not necessarily my opinion on whether it's good or bad, just things of note).

1.  Accessing the back porch only via the bedrooms seems odd.
2.  Do you really need 2 stairs to the basement?  I don't understand the need for the patio to the basement.  If you had a live-in caregiver wouldn't they be upstairs all the time anyways since that's the kitchen?  Seems unnecessary?
3.  You have 2 bathrooms upstairs, you probably don't need 2 tubs.  Make 1 of them a walk-in shower which will help in your old age.  My general opinion is most houses don't need more than 1 tub really.
4.  Your bedroom/bathroom doors aren't large enough, they're currently at 2', but you'll want closer to 2.5-3' normally, and closer to 3' for a walker/wheelchair (IME this will play havoc then with the rest of your layout as you need to find another foot everywhere).  Keep trim in mind, so a 30" door ends up needing 30"+3-4"+3-4" for trim, so closer to 36-38".
5.  4'x4' closets seem odd.  Like just big enough they're almost walkin but not quite.  I'd either reduce or increase the depth (I'd reduce in your case) and pick up another foot or more in the bedrooms.  

[hoops902]

Having a "proper layout" diagrammed on a floor plan site is also how I found a LOT of "small" problems.  I did everything in Excel first just like you.  What I found when I went to a floor plan layout is that all of those little "rounding" things where everything was a foot started causing issues.  Counting a 3' door instead of an extra 6" for trim threw things off, as did the simple fact I needed 4.5" for a real wall on the interior.  Same for placing things like toilets, and seeing the physical representation, then looking at code to see how much space you actually have to have around it.  

If the 2nd bedroom isn't really going to be a bedroom...does it make sense to just take that entire closet for the master?  Then maybe move your garage entry door down, move the pantry toward the kitchen, and drop in a small closet for the bedroom where your pantry currently is?  I say that because I anticipate you're going to need to move the double-closet overall to make it smaller so you have space for a proper door into your master bedroom given it is 2' at the moment.  

[oped]

Are you considering outside dimensions? Because walls aren’t a line. Each wall takes up space and limits those inside dimensions.

All of those little closets and bathrooms are going to be much smaller and that hallway narrower than you think if you are preserving outside dimensions that are reflected in your porches... etc. 


Also seconding the doorways are too small... 

[laterbloomer]

It looks awesome!

Personally I don't like having to go through a bedroom to get to the back deck. I made one of my bedrooms a den for just that reason, you don't have to go through anyone's personal space to get outside.

[The Walk of the Penguin Mich]

If you are planning on aging in place, replace tubs with a large shower with bench.  You mentioned doorways, do not forget about hallways too, particularly angles, this is rough with wheelchairs and walkers.  Also consider the installation of higher rise toilets and grab bars now.  Try to imagine where you would need to grab to belt yourself off of a toilet, or to steady yourself in the shower.  Position is everything, or they are useless.

I would not eliminate the linen closet, but would expand to put the washer and dryer in upstairs from the get go.   You may not have the luxury of advanced knowledge of  mobility issues and it isn’t always so easy to get things like this done after the fact.  It looks like you have both a large front and back porch and I would pull from that.  I would so expand for a coat closet.

About your kitchen, what I’d do is expand the table to become a breakfast bar perpendicular to the current counter where the door is.  You might need to take a foot from the LR.  This gives you additional counter space that can be used as a table, and gives you someplace to drop groceries as you bring them in.  

I would consider putting in a central vacuum line and heated floors.  About floors, wheelchairs are the death of carpet and using a walker is harder to use on carpet.  So you want to pay attention to your floors.  Heated floors will minimize the need for throw rigs, which are trip hazards.

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 15:11:19 GMT -5 hoops902 said:

Ok so my observations on the layout (not necessarily my opinion on whether it's good or bad, just things of note).

1.  Accessing the back porch only via the bedrooms seems odd.
My thought with this...  The back porch is mostly for just sitting and relaxing with a cup of coffee.  Kind of a "private" space rather than friends/family hang out area.  So I'm ok with them just off the bedrooms (funny enough, my eventual neighbor told me she plans to do this as well, and told her bf she didn't care if he thought it was odd, it's what she wanted!)
2.  Do you really need 2 stairs to the basement?  I don't understand the need for the patio to the basement.  If you had a live-in caregiver wouldn't they be upstairs all the time anyways since that's the kitchen?  Seems unnecessary?
I don't care for exterior only access to the basement, or interior only entry, so that's why there are two sets of stairs.  I have both ways of entry into my current house, and I use them for different purposes (it was great when I had a dog, because I'd just let her outside through that door-- my room is in my basement).  I don't plan to do a lot of moving big things in and out, but it's really nice not to have to haul things through the house when I do.
3.  You have 2 bathrooms upstairs, you probably don't need 2 tubs.  Make 1 of them a walk-in shower which will help in your old age.  My general opinion is most houses don't need more than 1 tub really.
This has been something I've thought of...  If my son has a family and visits, I can see them wanting a tub for kids, so guest bathroom gets a tub.  I like to soak in the tub, so master bath gets a tub.  But I also really liked a simple walk-in shower that was in every place I stayed in Sweden and Finland, so...?  I think this is where "tub now, remodel to walk in shower when I get old".  I do have a clawfoot tub-- I might be able to do this in the master bath and make it a very easy conversion-- tile the room like it has a walk in, but install the tub instead.  Then the tub can just be removed when I need it to be, and everything is already tiled and ready, just convert the drain to a floor drain.  This would involve a conversation with the builder to make sure it doesn't look funny.
4.  Your bedroom/bathroom doors aren't large enough, they're currently at 2', but you'll want closer to 2.5-3' normally, and closer to 3' for a walker/wheelchair (IME this will play havoc then with the rest of your layout as you need to find another foot everywhere).  Keep trim in mind, so a 30" door ends up needing 30"+3-4"+3-4" for trim, so closer to 36-38".
Crap.  At some point I had them 3', not sure when I changed that (probably when I rearranged the closets to make the linen closet/future W/D cubby work better).  
5.  4'x4' closets seem odd.  Like just big enough they're almost walkin but not quite.  I'd either reduce or increase the depth (I'd reduce in your case) and pick up another foot or more in the bedrooms.  
Is 2' deep enough for a closet?  I could have them back-to-back instead of side-by-side.  Then they could each be 2 feet deep and 7-ish feet wide.  This would make everything easy access (have shelves and a curtain rod), pretty large still, and make room for the wider doorways (I could shrink them to 6 feet wide if I needed more room).

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 15:39:57 GMT -5 oped said:

Are you considering outside dimensions? Because walls aren’t a line. Each wall takes up space and limits those inside dimensions.

All of those little closets and bathrooms are going to be much smaller and that hallway narrower than you think if you are preserving outside dimensions that are reflected in your porches... etc. 

Yes, I've considered outside dimensions.

This is drawn out as 30' x 30', ignoring wall space, because I couldn't include that easily.  Add in 6" exterior walls and 4" interior walls, and the room sizes should be very close to accurate, with the full size of the house being around 32' x 32', not the 30 x 30 drawn.  Closet walls are pretty thin (except maybe the one for the future W/D, to provide for pipes and giving some sound insulation).

Porch dimensions should be 8 x 32 (or width of whatever house ends up being).  I need to change that!

[hoops902]

2' is about the minimum for a closet, I'd put them at 30" just to be safe (and even then if you put them back to back, at 2' depth you're talking about 2' + 2' plus 4.5"+4.5"+4.5".  So it's more like 5' anyways.  

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 15:30:36 GMT -5 hoops902 said:

Having a "proper layout" diagrammed on a floor plan site is also how I found a LOT of "small" problems.  I did everything in Excel first just like you.  What I found when I went to a floor plan layout is that all of those little "rounding" things where everything was a foot started causing issues.  Counting a 3' door instead of an extra 6" for trim threw things off, as did the simple fact I needed 4.5" for a real wall on the interior.  Same for placing things like toilets, and seeing the physical representation, then looking at code to see how much space you actually have to have around it.  

If the 2nd bedroom isn't really going to be a bedroom...does it make sense to just take that entire closet for the master?  Then maybe move your garage entry door down, move the pantry toward the kitchen, and drop in a small closet for the bedroom where your pantry currently is?  I say that because I anticipate you're going to need to move the double-closet overall to make it smaller so you have space for a proper door into your master bedroom given it is 2' at the moment.  

I work in a place that has some very large open areas.  I've thought about taping it out on a weekend when no crews are there, and then maybe standing up some cardboard or something to act as my walls so I can get a better feel.

See other post for thoughts on closets and bedroom doors.

The bathrooms are set up like my current main bathroom, just with more space!  So, I know I'd be good with that placement, and the room around the toilet will work unless codes change.  (Current bathroom is smaller, and there is a chimney next to the toilet, with the toilet still to code, so I'll be good there, since it functions well enough for me.  Definitely small, but I don't spend a lot of time in there.)  The interior stairs took a lot of fiddling to reduce floor space but still make them to code.

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 15:45:10 GMT -5 laterbloomer said:

It looks awesome!

Personally I don't like having to go through a bedroom to get to the back deck. I made one of my bedrooms a den for just that reason, you don't have to go through anyone's personal space to get outside.

Thanks
I hope I never have anyone live with me there (except maybe a live-in caretaker if I need to, then the basement would be set up for them), so one of the doors would be through my quilt room instead of personal space.  Porch is also more of a private area, so don't plan to have much not-me traffic too and from (but that's why both rooms will have a door, so no one is ever trekking through MY bedroom!)  There will be plenty of other outside sitting areas for guests (front porch, a gazebo, benches among the trees, etc).

[oped]

Dec 13, 2019 15:57:13 GMT -5 Apple said:

Dec 13, 2019 15:39:57 GMT -5 oped said:

Are you considering outside dimensions? Because walls aren’t a line. Each wall takes up space and limits those inside dimensions.

All of those little closets and bathrooms are going to be much smaller and that hallway narrower than you think if you are preserving outside dimensions that are reflected in your porches... etc. 

Yes, I've considered outside dimensions.

This is drawn out as 30' x 30', ignoring wall space, because I couldn't include that easily.  Add in 6" exterior walls and 4" interior walls, and the room sizes should be very close to accurate, with the full size of the house being around 32' x 32', not the 30 x 30 drawn.  Closet walls are pretty thin (except maybe the one for the future W/D, to provide for pipes and giving some sound insulation).

Porch dimensions should be 8 x 32 (or width of whatever house ends up being).  I need to change that!

With drywall interior walls finished are closer to 4.5 and with trim think 5 inch. I actually plan at 6 because i'd rather have an extra inch than be short an inch.   Closet walls are framed in the same as any other walls... I'm not familiar with anyone who frames them differently?   

Go with 6 inches... use a ruler, draw to scale with walls at 1/2 block Even if you want to calculate giving yourself an extra inch or 2 that will be closer to the actual dimensions of those interior small spaces you are drawing.   Put in the correct 3 foot door spaces.  Fix things like 1 foot sink.. this is just not likely at all to happen. My dad has one in the cabin... i think he had to have it special ordered... realistically 16-18 inches is the smallest you will find, i just went through this... and that is SMALL. 

I know it doesn't seem like much... but give a couple inches here and few more there, add an inch for counter tops, etc... and when you are planning small spaces they can get too small quickly. 

No need for 3 tubs!  Save some space there.  

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 15:58:00 GMT -5 hoops902 said:

2' is about the minimum for a closet, I'd put them at 30" just to be safe (and even then if you put them back to back, at 2' depth you're talking about 2' + 2' plus 4.5"+4.5"+4.5".  So it's more like 5' anyways.  

I just had to go measure the one "normal" closet I have in this house...  The interior is 24", and it sticks out 29" into the room, so yeah, looks like I'll need to sacrifice about 6" in each room without having to make the house bigger.  I think I'm ok with that.

[hoops902]

Dec 13, 2019 16:10:49 GMT -5 oped said:

Dec 13, 2019 15:57:13 GMT -5 Apple said:

Yes, I've considered outside dimensions.

This is drawn out as 30' x 30', ignoring wall space, because I couldn't include that easily.  Add in 6" exterior walls and 4" interior walls, and the room sizes should be very close to accurate, with the full size of the house being around 32' x 32', not the 30 x 30 drawn.  Closet walls are pretty thin (except maybe the one for the future W/D, to provide for pipes and giving some sound insulation).

Porch dimensions should be 8 x 32 (or width of whatever house ends up being).  I need to change that!

With drywall interior walls finished are closer to 4.5 and with trim think 5 inch. I actually plan at 6 because i'd rather have an extra inch than be short an inch.   Closet walls are framed in the same as any other walls... I'm not familiar with anyone who frames them differently?   

Go with 6 inches... use a ruler, draw to scale with walls at 1/2 block Even if you want to calculate giving yourself an extra inch or 2 that will be closer to the actual dimensions of those interior small spaces you are drawing.   Put in the correct 3 foot door spaces.  Fix things like 1 foot sink.. this is just not likely at all to happen. My dad has one in the cabin... i think he had to have it special ordered... realistically 16-18 inches is the smallest you will find, i just went through this... and that is SMALL. 

I know it doesn't seem like much... but give a couple inches here and few more there, add an inch for counter tops, etc... and when you are planning small spaces they can get too small quickly.  

A lot of people flip the studs sideways for closet walls because they tend to not be structural and often they have some kind of sliding or accordion door that will work on 1.5" rather than 3.5".  I find this a lot in older homes.  I also like 6"...particularly if I'm drawing something up roughly in Excel...6" squares (assuming I'm not being super particular and using 1" squares).  

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 16:10:49 GMT -5 oped said:

Dec 13, 2019 15:57:13 GMT -5 Apple said:

Yes, I've considered outside dimensions.

This is drawn out as 30' x 30', ignoring wall space, because I couldn't include that easily.  Add in 6" exterior walls and 4" interior walls, and the room sizes should be very close to accurate, with the full size of the house being around 32' x 32', not the 30 x 30 drawn.  Closet walls are pretty thin (except maybe the one for the future W/D, to provide for pipes and giving some sound insulation).

Porch dimensions should be 8 x 32 (or width of whatever house ends up being).  I need to change that!

With drywall interior walls finished are closer to 4.5 and with trim think 5 inch. I actually plan at 6 because i'd rather have an extra inch than be short an inch.   Closet walls are framed in the same as any other walls... I'm not familiar with anyone who frames them differently?   

Go with 6 inches... use a ruler, draw to scale with walls at 1/2 block Even if you want to calculate giving yourself an extra inch or 2 that will be closer to the actual dimensions of those interior small spaces you are drawing.   Put in the correct 3 foot door spaces.  Fix things like 1 foot sink.. this is just not likely at all to happen. My dad has one in the cabin... i think he had to have it special ordered... realistically 16-18 inches is the smallest you will find, i just went through this... and that is SMALL. 

I know it doesn't seem like much... but give a couple inches here and few more there, add an inch for counter tops, etc... and when you are planning small spaces they can get too small quickly.  

It's definitely been a balancing act!

I did just check the "normal" closet, and it's framed like other rooms.  The rest of the closets I'm used to (in this house, a previous house, and the houses I grew up in) had much thinner walls-- like 1" thick.

The sinks are all drawn at least 2' (the master bath and kitchen sinks are drawn at 3').  One might look like I drew it 1', but it just didn't line up to the cell lines, so I put little dashes to show the width.

I'm ok with a few inches of wall space making things a bit bigger, I just want the actual room size to be as close to what I've written them at as possible.  If the house has to be 32.5' x 32.5', that's ok, I just don't want to start shrinking rooms by more than half a foot.  This is part of my "not professional drawings" disclaimer, because I just can't do wall space with any software I had on hand.

[oped]

I meant depth... Sinks are not going to be 1 foot deep. 

[Apple]

Dec 13, 2019 16:21:14 GMT -5 oped said:

I meant depth... Sinks are not going to be 1 foot deep. 

Oh, yeah, that's drawing limitations as well.

Bathrooms are all bigger than my current bathrooms, so I know it will work for me "in real life".

[hoops902]

Dec 13, 2019 16:19:06 GMT -5 Apple said:

Dec 13, 2019 16:10:49 GMT -5 oped said:

With drywall interior walls finished are closer to 4.5 and with trim think 5 inch. I actually plan at 6 because i'd rather have an extra inch than be short an inch.   Closet walls are framed in the same as any other walls... I'm not familiar with anyone who frames them differently?   

Go with 6 inches... use a ruler, draw to scale with walls at 1/2 block Even if you want to calculate giving yourself an extra inch or 2 that will be closer to the actual dimensions of those interior small spaces you are drawing.   Put in the correct 3 foot door spaces.  Fix things like 1 foot sink.. this is just not likely at all to happen. My dad has one in the cabin... i think he had to have it special ordered... realistically 16-18 inches is the smallest you will find, i just went through this... and that is SMALL. 

I know it doesn't seem like much... but give a couple inches here and few more there, add an inch for counter tops, etc... and when you are planning small spaces they can get too small quickly.  

It's definitely been a balancing act!

I did just check the "normal" closet, and it's framed like other rooms.  The rest of the closets I'm used to (in this house, a previous house, and the houses I grew up in) had much thinner walls-- like 1" thick.

The sinks are all drawn at least 2' (the master bath and kitchen sinks are drawn at 3').  One might look like I drew it 1', but it just didn't line up to the cell lines, so I put little dashes to show the width.

I'm ok with a few inches of wall space making things a bit bigger, I just want the actual room size to be as close to what I've written them at as possible.  If the house has to be 32.5' x 32.5', that's ok, I just don't want to start shrinking rooms by more than half a foot.  This is part of my "not professional drawings" disclaimer, because I just can't do wall space with any software I had on hand.

If you're going to use Excel, use fill rather than border.  Then make each square equal to 6" (I do 1" sometimes for more precision and then shrink the view way down).  Then fill a square for a wall.  It helps with space, but honestly, it's also much more visually pleasing (use a different color fill for windows and doors, use fill colors for appliances, counters, etc).

[oped]

Ok. So maybe you need an architect at this point?  Because I don't think you realize that the dimensions aren't actually going to be what you have written there... and realistically you can't just 'make it all half a foot bigger' because framing and board lengths, etc. come in standard sizes... 

I don't mean to sound mean. I'm in year 3 of house building from scratch...  We did the original plans and the architect took them from there and at that point it became easier to see the issues.  


The flow of the rooms seems nice and it seems to hit all your marks... 

If you have an extra room in the basement... do you need an extra room upstairs? Could that all just be open or half walled with your bedroom?  Do you need an extra full bath? Or just an extra half bath? 

When you say you don't want to share your stuff, do you mean toilet?  Or just bath area?  

[hoops902]

Dec 13, 2019 16:23:25 GMT -5 Apple said:

Dec 13, 2019 16:21:14 GMT -5 oped said:

I meant depth... Sinks are not going to be 1 foot deep. 

Oh, yeah, that's drawing limitations as well.

Bathrooms are all bigger than my current bathrooms, so I know it will work for me "in real life".

Are the doors/things in the same places as well?  Sometimes those pesky doors throw the bathroom off, even though the size is larger than what you already have.  It's not just the size, but also the configuration (fwiw, I think yours seem fine most likely, small...but fine, just sometimes the actual layout appears incorrect which is simply a drawback of having 1' squares to work in).

Another trick I sometimes employ with excel if I have troubles with appliances, bathroom fixtures, etc (which I don't think you do) is I print off just a wall design of the house, then cut out the right size for those things and lay them out on the printed wall design.  Helps being able to move things around quickly/easily rather than changing excel just to see a different layout.

[hoops902]

Dec 13, 2019 16:27:44 GMT -5 oped said:

Ok. So maybe you need an architect at this point?  Because I don't think you realize that the dimensions aren't actually going to be what you have written there... and realistically you can't just 'make it all half a foot bigger' because framing and board lengths, etc. come in standard sizes... 

I don't mean to sound mean. I'm in year 3 of house building from scratch...  We did the original plans and the architect took them from there and at that point it became easier to see the issues.  

The rooms might be close to that size, because she laid out a 32'x32' house at 30'x30'.  She's got 4 walls in each directly ROUGHLY, so that'll eat up the additional 2' to get her to 32'.  

An architect is nice...but if she wants something basic most builders could take what she's got here, draw something better/more accurate with walls included at the correct sizing, and move on to building it (assuming architect-approved plans aren't required in her area).