three parks and PNW

[debthaven]

Hi there!

We just got back from a three-week road trip to Yellowstone and the PNW. plugginaway22 asked me to write about our trip here.

We went to Yellowstone NP (with DH's childhood friend), then DH and I went to Glacier NP, then drove to Vancouver BC to meet up with DS1, DGS and my sister.

Then 3 days on Orcas Island, then Seattle (where we picked up DDIL), 3 days in Olympic NP, then Portland. DH and I and my sister left Portland for home yesterday. DS1/DDIL/Grandson have another 10 days in Oregon on their own. 

We spent little time in the cities. With 2 nights in each city, but arriving late afternoon with a 2YO, we only really had one day in each. We loved Vancouver, didn't get much of a feel for Seattle, liked Portland. We generally visited parks or were on babysitting duty in the cities.

I LOVE LOVE LOVE the national parks. I am much more of a nature person than a city person.

We clocked up 3000 miles in 3 weeks, which was more than I'd have liked, but it was a fantastic trip. :-)

I realized too late that had I planned things differently, DH and I could have visited Grand Teton and North Cascades too. Oh well.

ETA: Thank you to everyone who responded on my YM thread and helped me plan (shout-out to travelnut11 !)

[TheOtherMe]

Would you tell us about your trip across Canada, please and thank you.

[plugginaway22]

Did you travel the 'going to the sun' route in Glacier?  Were you uncomfortable on any of the highways with treacherous overlooks?  This park is still on our bucket list.

[debthaven]

To respond to TheOtherMe (plugginaway22 next post)

Theo we were scared of the wait times to cross the border in Vancouver BC since we needed to be at the airport at 11 am to pick up DS1/DGS. So we opted to go north from West Glacier and cross into Canada there instead. We crossed at Roosville and took the Crow's Nest Highway (which DH's childhood friend's wife recommended) to Vancouver BC. There was ONE car in front of us when we arrived at the border!

That was the part that was just DH and I, and we loved it! The hotels were generally much less expensive than in the US. They were simple but clean and very nice. We opted for a couple of pools there. I'm claustrophobic and I smoke, so we always go for motels rather than hotels if we can.

This said, the hotels right outside the National Parks are ALWAYS more expensive (understandably).

Such beautiful scenery! Unfortunately those days were mainly spent driving so we didn't get to do much.

Does that help? Any other questions?

ETA: It was just across BC, not across all of Canada. 

 

[debthaven]

plugginaway22 YES!!! It was glorious!

DH drove that road. I generally drive anywhere but I don't do windy mountain roads with steep precipices. Happily DH loves them. There was an accident the week before we went ... most (but not all) of that road has built-up stone barriers, so really, don't be afraid of it.

We got up early but alas not early enough to do the hike I REALLY wanted to do (St Mary's Falls + another falls). We waited in that parking lot for 20 min then DH started talking to a local woman who told us to give up and go to Logan's Pass instead, before that filled up too. She suggested hiking to Hidden Lake instead, so we did that.

We still had to wait 10 min for a parking spot at Logan's Pass, at 9.45.

The other option that works really well in the parks (although it didn't work for us apart from Yellowstone, because we either had to travel too far those days, or we were with our 2YO grandson) is to arrive at the trailhead after 4.30 pm. The parks really empty out after 4.30/5 pm, but it's daylight till at least 8 pm, and the parks are actually open 24/7.

If DH and I had been alone, that would have suited us well. No regrets though.

[debthaven]

Everyone we met and chatted to in Glacier asked us which we preferred, Yellowstone or Glacier.

As stunning as Glacier is, having spent years hiking in the Alps in a previous lifetime, Yellowstone was the obvious answer.

Apparently there are similar volcanic landscapes in NZ (per my best friend A who I sent photos to) but there can't be many volcanic sites like Yellowstone, with the extraordinary wildlife as well.

Yellowstone had always been on my bucket list, but I never really expected to make it there, it's so out of the way from here. I cried entering the park, and several times more over those four days.

I'm crying again posting this. Yellowstone was just amazing.

DH's favorite NP is the Grand Canyon. Mine is Yellowstone. I'd go back in a heartbeat.

If I weren't nearly 60 and living in France, I would want to retrain to be a Park Ranger. Seriously, that's what I would love to be if/when I grow up.

[plugginaway22]

I so agree about Yellowstone!  But the Tetons are a close second.  I do remember crying when I first saw the Grand Canyon, but for some reason have no desire to go back there.  We have come to love the West, such a respite from the hot humid crowded mid-Atlantic!

[TheOtherMe]

I have never been to Glacier or the Grand Canyon.

I don't know if I can choose between Yellowstone and Teton.  They are both so beautiful.

[debthaven]

I really regret not having planned things better so that we could have spent a couple of days in the Tetons.

DS1 has one more year of grad school, but they are hoping to stay in the US for 3-5 years after he graduates.

Hopefully we'll be able to take another trip to the National Parks in that time frame. For obvious reasons, we cannot afford a trip like that every summer. Next summer will be a VERY cheap summer lol.

 

Pluggin I totally agree with you about the west. It's another, marvelous world!

[TheOtherMe]

Yellowstone was an easy one day drive when I lived in Boulder.  My regret is that I didn't go more than I did.  

All of my visitors wanted to go to Rocky Mountain National Park.  I think I got tired of always going there and showing people the same sights.  I can't tell you how many times I toured Coors, went to the Air Force Academy and Garden of the Gods, Rocky Mountain National Park, etc. during the years I lived in Boulder.

[bookkeeper]

Thanks for the trip report.  DH and I leave for Yellowstone NP in a couple weeks.  I am stoked to go!

[travelnut11]

Awesome trip report! Glad you liked it. It is a bummer you couldn't make it to the Grand Tetons but your itinerary was already really packed! Great excuse for a trip in 2021.

[travelnut11]

Also, how did I not know YMAM has a Travel board?!

[tskeeter]

Aug 24, 2019 22:00:38 GMT -5 debthaven said:

Everyone we met and chatted to in Glacier asked us which we preferred, Yellowstone or Glacier.

As stunning as Glacier is, having spent years hiking in the Alps in a previous lifetime, Yellowstone was the obvious answer.

Apparently there are similar volcanic landscapes in NZ (per my best friend A who I sent photos to) but there can't be many volcanic sites like Yellowstone, with the extraordinary wildlife as well.

Yellowstone had always been on my bucket list, but I never really expected to make it there, it's so out of the way from here. I cried entering the park, and several times more over those four days.

I'm crying again posting this. Yellowstone was just amazing.

DH's favorite NP is the Grand Canyon. Mine is Yellowstone. I'd go back in a heartbeat.

If I weren't nearly 60 and living in France, I would want to retrain to be a Park Ranger. Seriously, that's what I would love to be if/when I grow up.

My understanding is the many NP use volunteers as park hosts in exchange for an RV parking spot.  A couple of years ago, neighbors spent the summer at a small park somewhere along the PNW coast.  Just needed to be friendly and answer some questions.  I think Fred guided a couple of lighthouse tours each day, too.  

What do do you Think?  Summer in the States and winter in France?

[tskeeter]

Aug 25, 2019 8:34:50 GMT -5 TheOtherMe said:

I have never been to Glacier or the Grand Canyon.

I don't know if I can choose between Yellowstone and Teton.  They are both so beautiful.

For my money, Arches, Bryce Canyon, and Zion Canyon  beat out the big hole in the ground.  It’s the geology, man, the geology!  Hiking the HooDoos, Angel’s Landing, Wally’s Wiggles, and the Utah license plate!

[plugginaway22]

Just returned from a trip to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, as well as Deadhorse Point State Park in southern UT.  Loved all 3, such amazing rock formations and unbelievable beauty.  I would say that the Colorado River gorges in Canyonlands and Deadhorse rivaled the views in the Arizona Grand Canyon.  We did hit some killer heat, but worth every minute. Also not very crowded anywhere we went.