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Post by jamesjackson on Nov 29, 2011 19:40:03 GMT -5
Problem starting engine at any time regardless of engine temp or weather conditions. Once running, it's fine. ECU error code 22 (fuel pump circuit). Did resistance check and had a reading of 55.0. The manual says that the reading should be 0.5, otherwise replace the pump. The testers lowest setting is 200 ohms and I was wondering if the tester may be off that much, a decimal issue or could it be an actual reading. If the reading is correct, what does it mean. The manual doesn't explain any variation.
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Post by jamesjackson on Dec 1, 2011 10:51:37 GMT -5
I didn't think it was the meter either. It's brand new and I checked it with AA batteries, outlets, and misc. I checked the harness that leads to the pump while disconnected and also the volts leading to it from the fuse box and it was o.k.. The plug end is different than the manual shows. The top row has three prongs and the bottom only has two where as the book shows six. But the two that are checked for resistance are the outside top (A,C). Hopefully they're the right ones. Going to buy a pressure gauge today. I'm rooting for a bad regulator myself since it's about half the cost of the pump.
I also had an ECU error code 33, Which had showed up on an earlier test, but I ignored it since it never returned and I assumed that it was due to having the line disconnected changing the filter. That code can be caused by low fuel pressure. By the way way, after I checked the resistance and got the high reading, I hooked it back up and it started right up. Go figure.
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Post by jamesjackson on Dec 3, 2011 11:58:01 GMT -5
Picked up a pressure gauge and was slightly under spec. 34.7(36.3) at idle and 43.0(43.3) with throttle up. But the mechanic that installed the pump 18 months ago told me that the pressure was just under 35.0 psi due to the fact we had opt for the less expensive after market pump, so that hasn't changed. Disconnected the vacuum hose and the pressure went up over 40.0 psi. From what I've read, indicates that the regulator is working. However, my manual says to disconnect the vacuum from the manifold and use an alternate vacuum source to cause the pressure change, if it drops the regulator is working. Does using an alternate source really make a difference? Seem like it's creating the same result.
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Post by jamesjackson on Dec 15, 2011 13:56:17 GMT -5
Found a cheap ECU on EBay. Tore the wire harness down. Rechecked everything. Everything passed. The only thing left was the fuel pump. I broke down and the parts store had one in stock for a mere eighty nine bucks. Even though the old pump was putting out the correct pressures during the test and had never quit once while the car was running, turns out there was something not working correctly. The new pump seems to be working. I kept the old one and am going to play around with it. If I wasn't so cheap, the car would have been fixed two weeks ago. When the Mrs. started talking about a car payment on another used car, I had to take some cheaper, I meannn... more cost effective action. Live and learn.
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