FYI automotive questions

[EVT1]

Just found this section- looked around a bit and I can attest Rick knows what he is talking about- I have over 20 years working on Fords- mostly dealerships and then on my own. I have done it all bumper to bumper my specialty being driveabiltiy- I like a good puzzle (think car talk) and I really like helping people. To be a cynic, there is a good possibility you cannot trust your local dealer, or local shop, or anyone. I have worked this business and seen what it has turned into- you would be terrified to find out that the person doing your safety recall is unqualified, you will be broke spending money on a repair recommended by an unqualified technician. When I got out of the business as a tech the amount of customer screwing I have seen recently since is outrageous. Consider me a second opinion- you don't have to ask or listen, but it is more common than not to get taken in this industry. If you think you are getting taken-ask. My recent area of expertise is automatic transmissions and light duty diesels. Powerstroke questions welcome- and as a second source- I don't want to invade on Rick's territory- I'd trust what he says, but maybe I can help at times.

[kent]

OK Rick and evt1, here's a question for you two.

The car is a 1976 Ford Elite (Torino). It has new drums, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder and rebuilt proportioning valve (see post #14 at the following website for a visual on how these things work).

www.ford-trucks.com/forums/701761-brake-bleeding-with-proportioning-valve.html

The question is, what is the proper way to bleed the brakes. You cannot do a "gravity bleed" because the proportioning valve precludes doing so. Some guys (make that most guys) are saying you need to bleed the rear brakes first and then the front ones.

Apparently, after bleeding the rear ones, when you do the front ones you need to pull out the "bleeder rod" and hold it in the open position so fluid can flow when pumping the brake. Holding it open calls for a special tool but several guys have said anything that will hold it in the open position will work (vice grips or whatever) and that makes sense. It doesn't take much effort to hold it in the open position.

One guy said you need to take out the sensor switch (between the front and rear inlet ports) before bleeding to avoid breaking the "pin." This makes absolutely NO sense whatsoever.

So, any experience with this situation?

Patiently awaiting your input.....

[kent]

Oct 31, 2011 9:04:31 GMT -5 @rj said:

Oct 30, 2011 12:38:14 GMT -5 kent said:

OK Rick and evt1, here's a question for you two.

The car is a 1976 Ford Elite (Torino). It has new drums, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder and rebuilt proportioning valve (see post #14 at the following website for a visual on how these things work).

www.ford-trucks.com/forums/701761-brake-bleeding-with-proportioning-valve.html

The question is, what is the proper way to bleed the brakes. You cannot do a "gravity bleed" because the proportioning valve precludes doing so. Some guys (make that most guys) are saying you need to bleed the rear brakes first and then the front ones.

Apparently, after bleeding the rear ones, when you do the front ones you need to pull out the "bleeder rod" and hold it in the open position so fluid can flow when pumping the brake. Holding it open calls for a special tool but several guys have said anything that will hold it in the open position will work (vice grips or whatever) and that makes sense. It doesn't take much effort to hold it in the open position.

One guy said you need to take out the sensor switch (between the front and rear inlet ports) before bleeding to avoid breaking the "pin." This makes absolutely NO sense whatsoever.

So, any experience with this situation?

Patiently awaiting your input.....

Hold it open for the entire blrrding process. Start at the right rear, left rear right front then left front. Then release the valve

Thanks Rick - much appreciated!

[roygrip]

Wow Rick! I'm an amateur restorer. Current projects are

'79 Dodge 1/2 ton Van, 318, 72,000 mi's new heads, manifold, carb, headers, trans with shift kit. Engine resealed when trans rebuilt. Doing her like an '80s surfer van to haul my dirtbikes. Timing issues, possibly due to worn dist. bearing, will know more this weekend.

May have some questions. I'm good at body, paint, suspension, but sometimes my "shade tree mechanics" fail me! ;D

[EVT1]

Wow- knocked out at the first post. In my defense I started in the late eighties and had to deal with the hardcore emissions standards- the kind where they use a gas analyzer and a shitpile of vacuum control valves. I learned during the change to fuel injection. I am sure Rick is familiar with the VV carbs, EEC III, and the infamous recorder/monitor where you could record a blip and watch the datastream play out on needles. Proof of my cred- the Shop Bench and Dinette Set- Rick knows what that means.

On the other message - looking at the material the bleed valve is used to bleed the front brakes- either pushed in or pulled out. New to me- but I have had a disc/drum setup that fought me, not allowing fluid to the rear- in that case go easy and think about the pressure- the valve has to move by force and the only problem I see is it getting jammed on one side.