Automotive Mechanical

[rick]

Ok, there are no TSBs for a long crank. So to start with we need to know what kind of shape your battery is is in. You need to have greater than 10VDC while cranking. If Battery voltage is good the next step is to check fuel pressure. You will need a 0-75psi Gage and assorted fitting. I dont remember if the 06 had a schrader valve on it or not. The older ones did not so you had to Tee into the line. You need to check the pressure after it has sat awhile. When you turn the key to the on position the fuel pump will only run about 4 seconds before it shuts off unless it the PCM sees the motor cranking. . You want one fuel pump cycle. Pressure should be 35-45 psi. If it is not. Then cycle the key a couple times and see if it will build pressure. If it does, then you know the fuel pump is capable. . Now what I have seen, is as stated in an earlier answer is some of the newer injectors were bad. Different manufactor. What My guess would be is you have an injector leaking down causeing a flood condition with low initail fuel pressure. The easiest way to check this is to remove the infectors still attached to the fuel rail. With the retainers still attached to the injector to the rail you need to pressureize the fuel system. Becareful you have 40 PSI. With the fuel system pressurized watch the bottom of the injectors to see if any get wet. They should be dry. If any are wet, they need to be replaced.


Now the injectors and rail should be removed as an assy. Remove the retaining bolts from the rail to motor and gently pry injectors out of the head or intake.

[rick]

If that all looks good come back and will will look at some more possibilities

[Zeke]

Like all good customers I forgot a little info. The car has just under 95,000 miles on it. When it cranks like that, it will fire up when I tap the gas pedal, so it is a lot like it's flooded, so what you said about the injectors causing a flood condition sounds right. The battery tests good (a little under 12 volts, 560 CCA).

I do what you said and report back what I find.

Thanks!

[rick]

Let me know what you find out, and we can go from there

[rick]

Jan 20, 2011 18:08:26 GMT -5 @di said:

Could be a Simple as a Fuel Filter. they do need replaced every so often, more so if there is the slightest chance you have gotten Bad gas a few times or so.
I mention this as this can affect fuel pressure, at which point a quick tap of the gas can overcome the "lag" in the start.
just a thought.

This is true, and by checking the fuel pressure we will know what to start looking for

[hopetoberich]

Hi Rick,
Just a general question. Its cold out there 1 degree right now and going down. Is my battery ok in this kind of cold? I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. I know my windscreen washer was just about ok, but i am not using the car for the next 5 days or so will I have a problem starting it next week?

[rick]

Jan 22, 2011 20:05:26 GMT -5 hopetoberich said:

Hi Rick,
Just a general question. Its cold out there 1 degree right now and going down. Is my battery ok in this kind of cold? I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. I know my windscreen washer was just about ok, but i am not using the car for the next 5 days or so will I have a problem starting it next week?

Good question, but there is no good answer. It all depends on how old the battery is, and what the condition it is in. Even a newr battery can be weak and the only way to know is to have it load tested. Most places will do that at no charge. If the battery is questionable, you will find out in the colder weather.

[zkman2002]

just to add to DI,s post if you have a car or truck you dont drive much its a good idea to start and let run for abit, plus if possible move it around ie back it in and out of garage or drive, plus try not to park in exact same place everytime as that can flat spot the tires. moving vehicle around also keeps braking ,transmission and other systems working correctly.

[kent]

Jan 20, 2011 18:08:26 GMT -5 @di said:

Could be a Simple as a Fuel Filter. they do need replaced every so often, more so if there is the slightest chance you have gotten Bad gas a few times or so.
I mention this as this can affect fuel pressure, at which point a quick tap of the gas can overcome the "lag" in the start.
just a thought.

For what it's worth - aka, FWIW, I had a Ford that would not accelerate as anticipated even after changing the fuel filter (it acted like it was starving for fuel). It turned our that it had two fuel filters so changing the second one solved the problem.

[servant_of_dog]

Hi,
Our 2000 Toyota Echo manual transmission (if that matters) has a shrieking belt. Since DBF has applied belt-dressing on at least one of the belts with no positive effect, I'm asking for input. He can gun the engine and rev it high enough to max out the squealing, but the squealing returns, often just moments later.
I love him, but I probably know more about cars than he does. Tell me how to fix this while he's sleeping?
Thanks,

[rick]

Feb 1, 2011 1:27:40 GMT -5 servant_of_dog said:

Hi,
Our 2000 Toyota Echo manual transmission (if that matters) has a shrieking belt. Since DBF has applied belt-dressing on at least one of the belts with no positive effect, I'm asking for input. He can gun the engine and rev it high enough to max out the squealing, but the squealing returns, often just moments later.
I love him, but I probably know more about cars than he does. Tell me how to fix this while he's sleeping?
Thanks,

First mistake is Belt dressing, thats a no no. I reccomend replaceing the belts, but when you have the belts off you need to make sure all the pulleys and everything spin free without any grinding or catching. Check the spring loaded tensioner and make sire thats free and able to apply tension If everything feels good, get a can of carburator cleaner and clean all the dressing off the pullys. Instal the new belts and make sure they tighten. If you still have a squeal, eyeball the belt and make sure its running true and all the pulleys are in line.

Now this is an old trick, but if everything is ok and you still have a slight chirp you can apply a little dab of chassic grease on both sides of the belt. And for god sake make sure the car isnt running when you do this.

[Mad Dawg Wiccan]

<<First mistake is Belt dressing, thats a no no.>>


I used that stuff just once, on my wifes car. I was still in the parking lot of the auto parts store. I sprayed about a one second burst with the motor running. The squeak almost instantly rose to a shriek, and then the belt (serpentine) jumped off the pulleys. Fortunately, I was right across the street from a repair shop.
Turned out the squeak wasn't the belt at all, but an idler pulley bearing going out.

[rick]

Feb 1, 2011 18:24:43 GMT -5 Mad Dawg Wiccan said:

<<First mistake is Belt dressing, thats a no no.>>


I used that stuff just once, on my wifes car. I was still in the parking lot of the auto parts store. I sprayed about a one second burst with the motor running. The squeak almost instantly rose to a shriek, and then the belt (serpentine) jumped off the pulleys. Fortunately, I was right across the street from a repair shop.
Turned out the squeak wasn't the belt at all, but an idler pulley bearing going out.

LOL well you found your problem, but dressing is still a no no on serpentine belts

[servant_of_dog]

Aha; thanks for the info. I'll look at the belt - if it's still overall in good shape does it need to be replaced because of the dressing, or can it be cleaned like the pulleys? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

mad_dawg said: "The squeak almost instantly rose to a shriek, and then the belt (serpentine) jumped off the pulleys. Fortunately, I was right across the street from a repair shop."
Interesting...so what is belt-dressing supposed to be used for, out of curiosity? It has made the shrieking problem worse for us, but at least the belt is still on.

For the record, I really don't know much overall about car repair, but have assisted (okay, more like "attended" ) in various do-it yourself projects. I helped swap in a new serpentine belt on my old Buick century a few years back, and it was a pretty straightforward process. I guess we'll see...thanks again Rick!

[rick]

Feb 3, 2011 13:58:54 GMT -5 servant_of_dog said:

Aha; thanks for the info. I'll look at the belt - if it's still overall in good shape does it need to be replaced because of the dressing, or can it be cleaned like the pulleys? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

mad_dawg said: "The squeak almost instantly rose to a shriek, and then the belt (serpentine) jumped off the pulleys. Fortunately, I was right across the street from a repair shop."
Interesting...so what is belt-dressing supposed to be used for, out of curiosity? It has made the shrieking problem worse for us, but at least the belt is still on.

For the record, I really don't know much overall about car repair, but have assisted (okay, more like "attended" ) in various do-it yourself projects. I helped swap in a new serpentine belt on my old Buick century a few years back, and it was a pretty straightforward process. I guess we'll see...thanks again Rick!

Belt dressing was used years go when the quality of the belts weren't that great, but its kind of a band aid fix.
You can try and clean the belt but I have not had good luck doing that. The shit soaks into the belt and its pretty much ruined.Normally the reason for belt squeaks now days is a glazed belt, pulleys out of alignment or bad components

[Zeke]

Jan 18, 2011 21:49:52 GMT -5 @rick said:

Ok, there are no TSBs for a long crank. So to start with we need to know what kind of shape your battery is is in. You need to have greater than 10VDC while cranking. If Battery voltage is good the next step is to check fuel pressure. You will need a 0-75psi Gage and assorted fitting. I dont remember if the 06 had a schrader valve on it or not. The older ones did not so you had to Tee into the line. You need to check the pressure after it has sat awhile. When you turn the key to the on position the fuel pump will only run about 4 seconds before it shuts off unless it the PCM sees the motor cranking. . You want one fuel pump cycle. Pressure should be 35-45 psi. If it is not. Then cycle the key a couple times and see if it will build pressure. If it does, then you know the fuel pump is capable. .

Ok, the fuel pump would go to 41 psi, when the key was turned, then drop after. wouldn't hold pressure. Replaced the fuel pump, and now it starts right away.

I replace the fuel filter every 30k or so, so I figured that wasn't the problem.

I hate the air filter on it, because it has the gauge like the diesel does. If I want to replace it, because it's the SVT 2.3L, it's about $300~ish. The 2.3L on the Fusion has serviceable air filter, why not on my Focus? just a rant.... Got another question....

[Zeke]

Have an 09 Escape. In the last 3 weeks it has started shifting HARD. It'll knock you into the back of the seat. Mostly when it's cold, but sometimes randomly after 20+ minutes of running. 3.0L V-6, Auto, Trailer Tow pkg. There was a recall done to it 6 or 7 months ago, but it didn't shift like that before. I think that's what the recall was for, PCM update to change the shift pattern?, but I'm not sure. I also see oil leaking (brownish) from the front left axle. It has 44,7xx miles on it, but I'm thinking that the leak should be part of the p/t warranty. Any ideas on the hard shift or the oil leak?

[rick]

Feb 5, 2011 21:05:51 GMT -5 Zeke said:

Have an 09 Escape. In the last 3 weeks it has started shifting HARD. It'll knock you into the back of the seat. Mostly when it's cold, but sometimes randomly after 20+ minutes of running. 3.0L V-6, Auto, Trailer Tow pkg. There was a recall done to it 6 or 7 months ago, but it didn't shift like that before. I think that's what the recall was for, PCM update to change the shift pattern?, but I'm not sure. I also see oil leaking (brownish) from the front left axle. It has 44,7xx miles on it, but I'm thinking that the leak should be part of the p/t warranty. Any ideas on the hard shift or the oil leak?

I have to get to work this morning, but let me research the Recall this evening and see what it was all about. As far as the leak, if it stall falls under the warranty then yes. But the standard 09 warranty was 3/36 so you are over on the warranty unless you have an extended. But let me look around tonight and get back with you.

[rick]

Ok here is what I found on the TSB, or possible a a TSB that needs to be done, I would call and see, or check your paper work to see what was done. There was no recall for a reprogram.

FORD: 2010 Fusion
2009-2010 Escape
MERCURY: 2010 Milan
2009-2010 Mariner


ISSUE:
Some 2009-2010 Escape, Mariner, 2010 Fusion and Milan vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission may exhibit harsh 2-3 upshift after cold soak and/or 3-4 upshift flare after cold soak. Vehicles may also exhibit harsh rolling engagements if vehicle is shifted into reverse or drive before coming to a complete stop.
TSB
10-21-9

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) release 69.04 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2010.9 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.
The fluid level must also be set to the top hole (top of the cross hatch) on the dip stick, the fluid must be at operation temperature of 185-200 °F (85-93 °C) before the fluid level can be checked or

[rick]

Here is what I found on the axle leak


TSB
10-21-11
FORD: 2010 Fusion
2009-2010 Escape
MERCURY: 2010 Milan
2009-2010 Mariner


This article supersedes TSB 10-9-4 to update the model years covered, Service Procedure, Part List and Service Labor Time Standards.

ISSUE:
Some 2009-2010 Escape, Mariner and 2010 Fusion, Milan vehicles equipped with a 6F35 automatic transmission may exhibit a fluid leak from the left hand (LH) halfshaft seal. This may be due to seal and/or bushing wear caused by the halfshaft surface finish.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

A service kit is now available for Escape and Mariner vehicles which has all the parts needed including the inboard constant velocity (CV) joint housing, and eliminates the need for halfshaft assembly replacement. There are additional parts in the kit (halfshaft boot and small clamp) that are not required for this repair.

Fusion and Milan vehicles still require replacement of the halfshaft assembly.

2009-2010 Escape And Mariner

Replace the LH halfshaft seal. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. When the halfshaft seal is removed, visually inspect the transaxle case bushing for wear.
If bushing is visually worn, replace the bushing in the transaxle case. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01.
If bushing is not visually worn; clean the area behind the halfshaft seal before installing the new seal.
Clamp the LH halfshaft in a soft-jawed vise. Use care not to damage the boot or component damage may occur.
Remove and discard the one (1) large inboard CV boot clamp. (Figure 1)


Figure 1 - Article 10-21-11


Remove the inboard CV joint housing and discard. (Figure 2)


Figure 2 - Article 10-21-11


Push the boot back and remove all the grease from the boot.
Install half of the packet of grease (supplied with kit) into the new CV joint housing. Inject the other half of grease into the boot on the CV tripod joint.
Install the new inboard CV joint housing on the CV tripod joint and new large inboard CV boot clamp.
Insert a small, flat-blade screwdriver under the boot seat to allow the air to escape. Slide the tripod joint in as far as it will go, then pull it out 0.787 in (20 mm). Remove the screwdriver.
Using special service tool 205-343 (constant velocity joint boot clamp installer) or equivalent, install the new CV boot clamp. (Figure 3)


Figure 3 - Article 10-21-11


2010 Fusion And Milan

Replace the LH halfshaft and seal. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. When the halfshaft seal is removed, visually inspect the transaxle case bushing for wear.
If bushing is visually worn, replace the bushing in the transaxle case. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01.
If bushing is not visually worn; clean the area behind the halfshaft seal before installing the new seal.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
AL8Z-7025-A Bushing (Fusion/Milan)
9L8Z-1177-A Seal (Fusion/Milan)
AL8Z-3B414-A Service Kit (Escape/Mariner)
AE5Z-3A427-E Half Shaft (2.5L Fusion)
AE5Z-3A427-F Half Shaft (3.0L Fusion/Milan)
XT-10-QLV Mercon® LV ATF

[Zeke]

10B15 is the recall that was performed on the Escape. It passed the load test, and the PCM was updated. There were 32,000 miles on it at the time. The fluid looks a blackish, so I'm going to have it flushed this week. If that doesn't help, I'm not sure what my next step will be.

The P/T warranty is 5 year/60,000 miles, so it falls under both time and miles. I'm going to be calling a dealer today to see if it's covered. TSB 10-21-11 is exactly the leak I was talking about.

Thanks again.

[rick]

Feb 14, 2011 12:26:26 GMT -5 Zeke said:

10B15 is the recall that was performed on the Escape. It passed the load test, and the PCM was updated. There were 32,000 miles on it at the time. The fluid looks a blackish, so I'm going to have it flushed this week. If that doesn't help, I'm not sure what my next step will be.

The P/T warranty is 5 year/60,000 miles, so it falls under both time and miles. I'm going to be calling a dealer today to see if it's covered. TSB 10-21-11 is exactly the leak I was talking about.

Thanks again.

I just read the recall and its a customer satisfaction recall, meaning they will only fix it if you complain, its not a campain where they send out letters. I wouldnt waste your money with the flush. Take it back to the dealer and tell them to tear it down. Here is a copy of the recall, sounds like you at least need a valve body.

Attachments:

R10B15.pdf.jpg (63.29 KB)

[rick]

And I dont reccommend a flush on this transmission because you cant replace the filter without pulling the transmission and spltting the case. Anything that the flush knocks loose will be caught in the filter

[rick]

Well how about some updates here, did anyone get their problems solved

[TD2K]

What's your opinion of synthetic versus conventional motor oil?

[rick]

Feb 20, 2011 22:52:53 GMT -5 TD2K said:

What's your opinion of synthetic versus conventional motor oil?

Motor oils is always a hot topic,whether is brand or type, everyone has their own opinions but I myself wont spend the money on them. I change my oil every 3k anyway so so the extra cost is crazy. I drive my cars until the are trashed and have never had a motor problem and I normally retire them about 300k. Most people dont keep a car past about 100k, and most change their oil like they should. So with that being said, its what you are comfortable with.


Now synthetic gear lube now thats a different story. I have never had a rear differential apart that used regular 80/90. But I have had more than I can count that used synthetic with bad bearings.

[Mad Dawg Wiccan]

What's your opinion on the teflon motor oil additives, like Slick 50 (just as an example)?

[rick]

Feb 21, 2011 19:08:13 GMT -5 Mad Dawg Wiccan said:

What's your opinion on the teflon motor oil additives, like Slick 50 (just as an example)?

Regular motor oils is so good now days additives arent neeed

[TD2K]

As Rick Points out MOST folks never even really notice the slight Loss of Power that occurs over time from normal use

I remember an episode of Top Gear where they tested several older cards to see what they produced for Hp versus their 'new' rating. The loss was huge though it's hard to say how well they were cared for.

Thanks for the thoughts on oil Rick. I have a turbocharged Subaru and Subaru now requires full synthetic for their new cars and recommends it now for their older turbos. The price just is high especially when I'm chaning the stuff every 3,750 miles.

[domeasingold]

My speedo says 220.
Synthetic oil is recommended.