Automotive Mechanical

[rick]

[kent]

Dec 23, 2010 17:31:26 GMT -5 @rick said:

Dec 23, 2010 17:28:03 GMT -5 kent said:

OK, couldn't find wax at Pep Boys (large store) or Napa Auto Parts. The boss said she had a couple of things I might try called Hope's Perfect Glass and Invisible Glass by Stoner.

I treated it with Perfect Glass and will test that. Then I'll try the Invisible Glass and then.......I'll send my concerns to Mercedes and then....I'll send it over cliff.


Rick Mini update. The wax routine doesn't seem to work. Took it back in the other day and they replaced both arms and blades. Now all I have to do is wait for rain. BTW, her new Ford edge doesn't have a problem - I should have bought two Fords!

Any kind of car wax will work, I just thought turtle wax would be easy lol. let us know

[TD2K]

Your own board Rick, congrats!!

[rick]

I should have bought two Fords!

[hopetoberich]

Hello Rick.
I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. 88000 miles. Its passed inspection with no problems but the dealer said that the brakes have rusted? Maybe the area around the wheels? Anyway, how can it pass inspection but still have something that sounds dangerous? Is it a must repair now or do i have some time. Also there's snow on the road this time of year, will this rust affect the braking or will i be good?
Thanks in advance.

[rick]

Jan 8, 2011 15:05:55 GMT -5 hopetoberich said:

Hello Rick.
I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. 88000 miles. Its passed inspection with no problems but the dealer said that the brakes have rusted? Maybe the area around the wheels? Anyway, how can it pass inspection but still have something that sounds dangerous? Is it a must repair now or do i have some time. Also there's snow on the road this time of year, will this rust affect the braking or will i be good?
Thanks in advance.

You probably just have rust pitted rotors. I have no idea how the inspection works, I dont live in an inspection state. If the rust pitting is to bad, it is a safethy concern. As long as the brakes are smooth without a lot of chatter you are ok. But if they start to feel rough you will need new rotors, Abnout 40-50 bucks each plus labor

[973beachbum]

Hi Rick. I see you managed to get your own board. How did that happen?

My car is a 1998 ford Taurus. It has the regular 6 cylinder engine with an automatic trans.

For some reason it has not been starting well. It is very hard to start especially when it is cold. It just had a full tune up including plugs and wires.

DH says it is the electronic ignition pump needs time to warm up more and I should never give it some gas to start it. But if I don't give it some gas at just the right time it never starts in the cold.

So is he right? And if so how do I get the darn thing to start right anymore?

[rick]

Jan 8, 2011 17:32:05 GMT -5 973beachbum said:

Hi Rick. I see you managed to get your own board. How did that happen?

My care is a 1998 ford Taurus. It has the regular 6 cylinder engine with an automatic trans.

For some reason it has not been starting well. It is very hard to start especially when it is cold. It just had a full tune up including plugs and wires.

DH says it is the electronic ignition pump needs time to warm up more and I should never give it some gas to start it. But if I don't give it some gas at just the right time it never starts in the cold.

So is he right? And if so how do I get the darn thing to start right anymore?

Ok you say hard to start, as in long crank time, or it fires and wont catch.
If you have no check eng light on, from past experience Im going to say the fuel pump is getting weak. Next time you think about it, cycle the key on then off a couple times to see if it starts better. The fuel pump will only run about 3 sec. if it doesn't see the motor turning over. So if the fuel pressure is a little low by cycling the key you give the pump a little longer run time. The Taurus fuel pressure should be 35-45 psi. It will not start under 35 psi. To find out for sure, you will need to put a fuel pressure gauge on and see just where you sit.
You could have a Mass airflow sensor problem, but you should set a light if its not up to par so Im leaning towards low fuel pressure.
You aren't going to like me, but I would buy Original Equipment parts on this one. I have seen to many aftermarket pump not hold up. Its spendy, you have to buy the whole fuel delivery module, about 480 bucks plus labor of about 2 hours.

[rick]

Jan 8, 2011 17:28:13 GMT -5 @di said:

Hi there Hope -

When a Mechanical Inspection is done, the Inspection Mechanic checks various Parts of Your Vehicle to ensure that they Meet a Minimum Safety Standard. These Checks Include (but are Not Limited to) Checking that All Lights work (Head, Highs, turns, 4 ways, Back ups, running) - Checking that the Windscreen Wipers Work and are in good repair - Checking to ensure that there is not too much "give" in your Shocks/Struts - Checking to Ensure that the Ball Joints Are still Solid (that is the part where you see them Wriggling the Tire while holding the top and bottom of it) - Checking to ensure that the Tie Rods are still good (that is where you see them Wriggling the Tire while holding the left and right side of it). They visually inspect all covers, etc.
Now when it comes to your Brakes in an Inspection - they get real Nitpicky.
Brake checks Include -
Checking the Thickness of the Rotor Surfaces (for Drums checking the Inside Diameter) - this is to ensure that the Metal is Strong and thick enough to to with stand the Heating and Flexing caused by braking.
Checking the Thickness of the Discs or Pads (the actual Braking medium) to ensure that there is enough material to actually do the job of Stopping You.
These checks are done Both Visually and with a Micrometer.
They also check to see how the condition of the brake hoses and hardware are.

What is most likely the case is that - By The regulations , Your car Passed the Inspection without issue.
BUT, The Inspection Mechanic noticed some Issues and Conditions, which while not an Immediate Concern, can over time cause deterioration of the Parts/Hardware within the Braking System.
A Good general Rule of thumb is that You should have the Rotors replaced ONCE every 5-6 Years, And Brake Pads/Discs should Be Replaced at least Once every 2 Years.
Calipers (the Part that hold your Brake Pads) generally are good for at least 10 years (however I personally Replace mine and all brake hoses Once every 5 years).

Should you Worry right away? Well that really depends on How you are as a person.
If you aren't all freaked out and losing sleep, then just bear the information in mind - And Once You start to Feel any Brake Fade (having to put more pressure into the Brake Pedal to stop, taking longer to stop) , Screeching coming from the Brakes (sounds like nails on a chalkboard only MUCH louder and just as annoying), or Pulling to one side - then Jump to it.
If However you are like me when it comes to my Cars, you will be going nuts over this Information and trying to find out what parts, how can I stop this from happening again, Etc.. and generally,being a nervous Wreck - If that is the Case, Prevent an Ulcer and deal with any Potential problems immediately.

LOL right answer, you type more than I do

[973beachbum]

as in long crank time, or it fires and wont catch.

Both which is why sometimes I tap the gas. (which pissed DH off to no end. ) And I don't know if the car is worth that much. In my area prices are much higher than where you live. I know that because rotors here are $160 each plus labor.

Other than tune ups and tires/brakes/tie rod ends it has only had one mechanical problem in it's life. It was a bad fuse in the computer box. It would turn the remote open and start on at any old time it wanted. But it was intermittent and man was that hard to figure out what was causing it!

I only want another year out of the car. It already had 200K on it. So I don't think it owes me anything anymore anyway.

I will have to think if this is worth it or not. It may because it has never had problems so clearly this was the one car Ford built well. Or not because this could be the start of more bad things to come.

[rick]

No DFI The Taurus didnt have injector troubles. Not saying they cant fail, but I have never changed an injector on one up to about 2007. And one or 2 injectors will not cause a no start proble. You may have a missfire but it will start.
I was thinking, another possibility could be an intake Air temp sensor. They dont always set aq light, but if its not reading right the PCM cant make the proper calibration for the injector on time ( pulse width). If the PCM thinks the engine is warmer than it is, it will decrease the amount of fuel the engine gets when cold. Much like the choke not setting on an old carburated engine

[973beachbum]

As for Prices that Rick Or I use I assume that Rick Is doing what I am Doing, Quoting ballpark Prices on things IF you bought them from a Autozone, advance auto or similar store.

I was meaning buyint the stuff myself at Autozone or the like. Unfortunatley I live in the land of $5 dozen eggs. Nothing costs what it should here.

[hopetoberich]

Thank you both for the replies. What great info!

[rick]

[zkman2002]

heres one just a fyi, had an old chevy lumina laying out in the back 40 that needed to go, after airing up the tires and charging the battery she wouldnt fire, it would try, but no go, pouring in 2 month old boat gas didnt help, anyhow car was being sold and new owner was stopping by shortly, what to do to get it running? heres what worked, i poured an entire can of sea foam with 12 gallons of gas BINGO! whum ba off we go, my point is that sometimes on clogged injectors sea foam will help, not a fix all but it always helped that old chevy run better and get better mileage

[rick]

I am a believer in Sea Foam. I have had good results from it #thumbsup#

[KaraBoo]

Jan 7, 2011 18:12:26 GMT -5 @di said:

I have a 1995, 3/4 ton, 454 engine (not quiet sure what that means), Suburban. It's not 4WD, but does have the towing package.

As it's gotten colder, I'm having problems with the steering - it's just started in the last month or so (North Central Texas). When I start it up first thing in the morning, I have a hard time turning the steering wheel to the right. It's like it's frozen up or a similar feeling. It only lasts for a few seconds of pressure (if that) and then unfreezes and turns freely.

DH has checked the power steering fluid levels and all is fine there. We have had problems with the pumps (replaced 2 in the last 4 years), but he thinks it might be in the steering column/box. Any ideas?

If I may. What the First part of your post means - is that You have a 2500 Series Suburban with the "oddball" 7.4L 454cid V8 TBI (N) OHV Motor.

As to the second part, Your Hubby may be on the right track. However It may not be the ENTIRE Steering gear assembly.
The Steering gear assemblies in the 1990 - 1998 Suburbans And Tahoes had an issue with the Steering Gear Input Shaft Seal, These had a habit of Wearing out and over time Collapsing, which would cause them to Bind up, which was most commonly felt as a "freeze" or "Sticking" of the Steering when first starting the Vehicle (especially noticible on Colder mornings). As the Fluid begins to Circulate, the Seal "Pops" into the correct alignment and the "stick" or "freeze" goes away.
Although not an IMMEDIATE issue (unless you have been experiencing this for more than a week or so), it should be addressed IMMEDIATELY, as This Seal Can and Will "blow out" eventually do to repeated flexing caused by this issue.
This can (and has) result in Catastrophic Failure of the Steering System, making Steering or Controlling the Vehicle Impossible.
At highway speeds the result can be deadly.
Fortunately, The Parts to repair the Steering Gear Input Shaft Seal are relitively inexpensive and it should only take a Qualified Mechanic a Couple of Hours to perform the Repair.

I own a 1995 Tahoe, and recieved the Service Bulletin that alerted me to this issue. Upon, Performing the Repair, I found that I did not have repeated failures of the power steering pump as I had prior to making the repair.

Rick and DFI - thank you both for your knowledge!

What is typed above is spot-on for what I am experiencing. I've learned to let the vehicle warm up before just jumping in and driving away - the problem doesn't happen at all if I let it warm up. This has been happening for several weeks now, so I will be checking into getting this fixed ASAP! I haul 4 kids around on a regular basis and I don't want to risk anyone's safety.

Is this something DH can and/or should do or is this something that is best left to the experts? DH knows enough about vehicles that he has almost all of the tools needed for standard repairs. He's changed out blow head gaskets, engines, transmissions, and everything else I can think of that's classified as difficult jobs - and he knows what tools to use/rent (if needed).

I have every confidence in him that he "can" do this job, but would it be recommended for him to? When he mentioned this problem to my Dad (who's also rebuilt classic cars from the frame up), he stated he wouldn't know what to do with a steering gear box problem and would pay for that repair (he's also getting older and doesn't want to mess with the stuff if he doesn't have to). Just curious if the experts think DH can do it.

[rick]

If he has never been into a steering gear I wouldnt recommend it if he was going to reair it. But if her were to buy a reman unit , it is something her could change himeself. The only special tool he would need is a pitman arm puller, which are to exspensive to buy or rent. 2 Power steering lines, steering shaft coupler 3 bolts and disconnect the drag link. Once the gear is out, remove the pitman arm and install on new gear and reinstall in vehicle. Tools needed if I remember right is metris # 15 1/2 drive socket ratchet of course, #18 line wrench #13 or 15 line wrench and I thinks its a #32 socket for the pitman arm

[KaraBoo]

Okay - I need more help.

Talked to DH about what was suggested here as the problem for my '95 Suburban (steering issue) and he stated he didn't feel comfortable in making this repair himself. Called the mechanic that I've used in the past (and have trusted) and asked for a ball-park price quote in replacing the seal (so I'd know how much to expect). After describing what the problem was and y'alls suggested repair, mechanic stated it probably wasn't the seal, but a power steering pump going/gone bad and that it needs to be replaced.

He suggested using power-steering fluid conditioner to see if that helped the 'freezing' and if it did then the problem was the most likely the pump and to get ready to replace it if/once the fluid conditioner stopped working. He stated after-market pumps were POS's and the most common cause of the problem I'm experiencing with my vehicle.

DH has replaced the pump before (twice since we've owned the vehicle in 5+ years). We don't want to keep replacing pumps if the real problem is something else.

What to do?

[rick]

Jan 10, 2011 16:13:16 GMT -5 @di said:

Call Another Chevy garage and tell them this.

"I have been experiencing some issues with my Steering, We have already replaced the Power steering pump TWICE. A Very knowledgable Friend has told us that the Problem may lie in the Steering gear, Specifically the Steering Gear input Shaft Seal. As he was having an issue nearly Identical to Ours with his 1995 Suburb, and he had the issue resolved by having that One thing Fixed. So we were wondering Could you take a look at it, because we are worried about the safety of our Kids."

Also, if they try to go on about the Power steering Pump - hit them With this -

"we have replaced that twice, Our Friend has told us that IF the pumps are consistantly going out that the Problem HAS to be elsewhere In the System. And he should know he was a mechanic For Years"

(I wasn't but RICK was and I am sure he would most likely agree with that statement)

Be firm, If they try to give you the run around Hold your Ground. They will start to look Were you Most likely think the issue is IF YOU HOLD THE LINE..
Mechs, Don't Really like when a Customer Thinks they know and they don't like it much when a customer Pushes the issue --- BUT,, They Don't like turning away business more...

I caution going in and telling them what is wrong and what you want them to fix. Any shop is going to want to Diag. it so they can make sure they are repairing the right part. What I have sugguested is only a guess because I have not seen the vehicle and run my own test on it. Spending an hour labor on it to define the actual problem is the best bet.
I have had people come into my shop before saying I want this replace because Autozone pulled codes and told me this was what was wrong. The customer refused diag and told me to replace X part. I would would replace the part and the customer complained it didnt fix it. My response would be, now would you like to me Diag it so we can determine the failed part.

[rick]

Just to give everyone a little back ground, I have been wrenching 35 years,30 of those in the military, 15 years as a state certified master Mechanic, and 15 years Ford Senior Master Mechanic

[rick]

Jan 10, 2011 17:47:53 GMT -5 @di said:

Rick,
What I meant by this was not For them To DEMAND that, the Suggested Part Be replaced..

So we were wondering Could you take a look at it

But, Rather to Firmly ask if they Would START looking there.. As the Power steering pump Has been Replaced twice before.
For all the Issues the 90 thru 99 Tahoe and Suburbans did have, the Power steering pumps were pretty much bullet proof. Did they Die - Sure. But 2 in a 5 year span is not something that would be considered "normal" for them (unless you were going Offroading regularly and beating the snot out of them).

I made the suggestion as, the Mech she called came back with "it is probably the power steering pump" After (and I am assuming this) he was told that they have replaced that Twice in 5 years..
To Me suggesting that "we'll just change the (whatever part), even though you have put 2 new ones in already" .
Is To Me like telling a guy who has had his Battery die, who has replaced it only to have it die again -- That Oh Batteries Sometimes are like that so, we will just replace it again.. INSTEAD of saying to the guy, "Umm, Your alternator, may be going or you may have an issue elsewhere in the charging system".

The questioner did say the They CALLED the guy and they were told this, Not that they had taken it to the guy and AFTER he looked at it he said that..

not trying to whack ya, just saying..

I agree, and with her statement that it only acts up turning one way, that tells me its not the pump. The pump doesnt care which way you are turning the wheel. Its job is to build pressure only. The gear determines what to do with it..

[rick]

Everyone must be trouble free

[kimber45]

"Everyone must be trouble free "

So far so good, other than needing to get a headlight replaced

[rick]

Jan 17, 2011 9:17:02 GMT -5 kimber45 said:

"Everyone must be trouble free "

So far so good, other than needing to get a headlight replaced

So what are you waiting for ;D

[kimber45]

So what are you waiting for

A warm place to do it

[rick]

Jan 17, 2011 9:45:58 GMT -5 kimber45 said:

So what are you waiting for

A warm place to do it

LOL you better make a road trip then

[kimber45]

LOL you better make a road trip then

Read more: www.notmsnmoney.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=cars&action=display&thread=1192&page=11#ixzz1BJ8oUaRM

Ya, I could go visit my brother, but I don't think that truck would make it to Texas

[Zeke]

Rick- -
I have a 2006 Focus ZX4 ST, 2.3L manual (The year after they dropped the SVT, otherwise it's the late version of the SVT focus). The crank time is about 4-8 seconds before it finally starts. I think there's a TSB out there for the 2.0, but I'm not sure about the 2.3. I've also heard that the valve on the fuel pump doesn't hold back pressure, so after the inital pump priming it goes too low to start. i'm having a hard time picking which one is the way to go, because i'm sure i'll pick wrong. The long start will happen after it has run for 2 to 40 minutes, and also fire right up randomly. I know Ford certs are a bear, so I'd love to hear your opinion.
Thanks,
Tuff

[rick]

Jan 18, 2011 20:52:54 GMT -5 Zeke said:

Rick- -
I have a 2006 Focus ZX4 ST, 2.3L manual (The year after they dropped the SVT, otherwise it's the late version of the SVT focus). The crank time is about 4-8 seconds before it finally starts. I think there's a TSB out there for the 2.0, but I'm not sure about the 2.3. I've also heard that the valve on the fuel pump doesn't hold back pressure, so after the inital pump priming it goes too low to start. i'm having a hard time picking which one is the way to go, because i'm sure i'll pick wrong. The long start will happen after it has run for 2 to 40 minutes, and also fire right up randomly. I know Ford certs are a bear, so I'd love to hear your opinion.
Thanks,
Tuff

Let me do a little research, be back in a few