The Captain
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Post by The Captain on Apr 9, 2014 10:25:30 GMT -5
DH took the van in for a recall and brake inspection. Turns out it needs about $4K in repairs. So, it's time to put a bullet in it. It's about 9 years old with 112K miles and IMHO not very well built (which is why I'm not willing to keep repairing). Last new car was about 5 years ago and I've finally recovered from sticker shock on that one. *GROAN* DH wants another new van or suv, I'm trying to convince him to go used. Esp if we want to buy a home with no contingency and carry two mortgages until our current home sells. I HATE vehicle shopping. Just rambling, but if anyone has any ideas or suggestions fire away!
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alabamagal
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Post by alabamagal on Apr 9, 2014 10:39:09 GMT -5
$4k in repairs....yikes....and only 112k miles.
What kind of repairs?
I don't think I have spent that total on all 4 of my cars in the last couple of years with over 120k each and they are 19 years, 12 years, 9 years and 7 years old.
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busymom
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Post by busymom on Apr 9, 2014 10:42:27 GMT -5
Hooray! Car shopping!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2014 10:48:46 GMT -5
I suggest looking at lease trade-ins. Our last 2 Jettas were lease trade-ins and they were still covered under the original warranty. And when that ran out they covered it under the VW Certified Pre-Owned Bumper to Bumper Warranty. Not saying go VW, but look for something that will have a warranty. Happy hunting!
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phil5185
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Post by phil5185 on Apr 9, 2014 11:10:05 GMT -5
More importantly, look for something that doesn't need a warranty. Some manufacturers provide 100,000 mile warranties as a way to sell cars - but that doesn't make the car more reliable and it just means that you paid for those repairs in advance (its added to the price of the car). They have 'average cost of repair' for every model so they know exactly what it will cost to keep those cars repaired - and they need to add that warranty cost to the car price.
Like georgiagal, we've had cars go 200,000 miles with almost no repairs - just maintenance & wear-items, tires, brakes, batteries. BTW, many things are over-marketed - shocks & struts come to mind. A shop can always claim that struts show wear, true, but that doesn't mean that they are out of spec or need replacing. And the recommendation often comes with "it could cause you to lose control and kill your family".
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The Captain
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Post by The Captain on Apr 9, 2014 11:10:06 GMT -5
$4k in repairs....yikes....and only 112k miles.
What kind of repairs?
I don't think I have spent that total on all 4 of my cars in the last couple of years with over 120k each and they are 19 years, 12 years, 9 years and 7 years old.
Front and Rear brakes and rotors need replacing Power steering line needs to be replaced Drive shafts and boots Oil Valve cover Oil Pan Transmission These were quick notes I took while he was on the phone with me. I also have to add that DH is hard on his vehicles and doesn't necessarily get the regularily scheduled maintenance done. This is the second new (at the time of purchase) vehicle he's had that we've purchased that I don't think has lasted as long as it should have. Which is why I'm pushing for a used auto.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2014 11:13:17 GMT -5
Just curious, what kind of van is this?
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Shooby
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Post by Shooby on Apr 9, 2014 11:16:50 GMT -5
Well $4k is still a lot less than buying a $30K van. So, you still might be further ahead. But nothing wrong with trading if you want to and can afford it.
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murphath
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Post by murphath on Apr 9, 2014 11:21:37 GMT -5
I'd fix it especially since he is so hard on his cars. $4,000 is way less than buying new at $30,000 or more. We had a Dodge caravan when all 3 kids were young. Except for filling the tank, I really liked that car. It finally died at close to 200,000 miles. Usual wear and tear items and we did replace the transmission for $2,400. Car lasted @ 3 more years after that. But we did keep up on the maintenance.
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The Captain
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Post by The Captain on Apr 9, 2014 11:21:38 GMT -5
Just curious, what kind of van is this? A 2006 Kia Sedona. Barely 8 years old.
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phil5185
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Post by phil5185 on Apr 9, 2014 11:26:07 GMT -5
Brakes aren't repairs, all cars (including new ones) utilize brake pads from day#1. Along with tires and battery life. But the other 5 are all repairs - and way more than $4000 (the tranny alone is $4000). Drive shafts and boots are another $2500.
Oil Pan? lol. When our #2 daughter was in college she crossed an empty parking lot in fresh snow - and starting hopping the concrete barriers - I don't recall the cost, ie, a tow, a new pan, etc. But how did your DH trash an Oil Pan?
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NomoreDramaQ1015
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Post by NomoreDramaQ1015 on Apr 9, 2014 11:26:36 GMT -5
I also have to add that DH is hard on his vehicles I have a proposed solution. Repair van. .. make DH take the bus.
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bookkeeper
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Post by bookkeeper on Apr 9, 2014 11:28:58 GMT -5
I also have to add that DH is hard on his vehicles and doesn't necessarily get the regularily scheduled maintenance done. This is the second new (at the time of purchase) vehicle he's had that we've purchased that I don't think has lasted as long as it should have.
This would put you on double secret probation at my house. Be nice to the cars or start walkin!
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justme
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Post by justme on Apr 9, 2014 11:29:24 GMT -5
My parents recently bought a 1 year old Grand Caravan from CarMax. It was used by Enterprise so had really low mileage and a fair number of upgrades. I want to say they paid under $20k for it.
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The Captain
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Post by The Captain on Apr 9, 2014 11:40:30 GMT -5
Brakes aren't repairs, all cars (including new ones) utilize brake pads from day#1. Along with tires and battery life. But the other 5 are all repairs - and way more than $4000 (the tranny alone is $4000). Drive shafts and boots are another $2500. Oil Pan? lol. When our #2 daughter was in college she crossed an empty parking lot in fresh snow - and starting hopping the concrete barriers - I don't recall the cost, ie, a tow, a new pan, etc. But how did your DH trash an Oil Pan? We've replaced the brake pads three times, had the rotors turned one and replaced them once already (I think the last time we replaced the brake pads). We do not live in a hilly area so there's no reason for the pads/rotors to wear as quickly as they do. I could be wrong on this though but I though you're supposed to get at least 30K out of a good brake pad and the rotors should be turned or changed every other time you change the pads? At 112K I think having to do both again is a bit early. As far as the oil pan, I dunno - it could be as easy as going up a driveway with a lip too quickly. The van had a recall so he took it to the dealership. I'm tempted to have him take it to our trusted local mechanic for a second looksee. We've had a little under 3K a year in average in repairs the past few years (axel, struts, can't remember what else). It just seems like we're getting to pouring in 3-4K a year in repairs that are coming more closer together timewise.
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sarcasticgirl
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Post by sarcasticgirl on Apr 9, 2014 11:58:05 GMT -5
tell DH to stop off-roading and drag racing the van!
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The Captain
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Post by The Captain on Apr 9, 2014 12:25:59 GMT -5
tell DH to stop off-roading and drag racing the van! Yanno? IF there was a real reason (and fun does count) I could understand it. (Would pay money to see a bunch of mommymobiles drag racing)
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Post by The Walk of the Penguin Mich on Apr 9, 2014 12:31:01 GMT -5
The van had a recall so he took it to the dealership. I'm tempted to have him take it to our trusted local mechanic for a second looksee.
LOL....you should do that!
Last time I took my car to a dealership for a recall, I was informed that I needed a $600 brake job. I took my car to my mechanic and he showed me my brake pads. I had more than 50% of the pad remaining and everything else was in good shape.
I also had them do an oil change at the same time, while they were doing the recall repairs and they charged me $65 for that. Never took my car back there, despite the fact that they kept sending me all these coupons. $10 off a 65 oil change is almost twice as much as my trusted mechanic charges me, and the mechanic was less of a pain in the ass to get to!
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alabamagal
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Post by alabamagal on Apr 9, 2014 12:37:50 GMT -5
Two of my cars (driven by my sons) are Kias. 2005 Spectra (owned for 3 years) and 2007 Spectra (6 months). We have never taken to the dealership, just to local repair when needed. The 2005 we have only had to replace the battery. We basically change the oil, check the brakes and tires and drive them until they stop.
I would question all but the brakes.
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movingforward
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Post by movingforward on Apr 9, 2014 12:45:32 GMT -5
I just bought a new to me car a couple of weeks ago due to the fact my old car needed about 3k - 4K in repairs. It was 7 yrs old. I did the non YM approved thing and got a new car. I take really good care of my cars so I don't think it was a very good one and it had several issues that should not have been happening. My thought was as soon as I fixed this something else would probably go wrong that would leave me stranded on the side of the road again and cost me more money. Sorry, not putting a ton of money into a car that is only worth $6,500 to begin with... I don't really care what YM says (which is why I didn't bother to come here and ask before I decided to purchase a new one)
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busymom
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Post by busymom on Apr 9, 2014 13:12:41 GMT -5
Dealership repair prices are ridiculous! I'd take it to your neighborhood mechanic, & get a 2nd opinion. (The one in our neighborhood does good work at less than 1/2 the price of the local dealership.)
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tractor
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Post by tractor on Apr 9, 2014 13:17:25 GMT -5
I would never trust the dealer to tell me what's wrong with a vehicle. They make most of their money from repairs, often when they're not really needed. Have a mechanic you trust look at it. My local place has a lifetime warranty on break pads, I guess they don't plan on people holding onto things very long. So far they have put three sets on my truck, and they average 70,000 miles per set. If you need them every 30,000 miles, and have transmission problems, someone must have a lead foot.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2014 14:00:43 GMT -5
Dealership repair prices are ridiculous! I'd take it to your neighborhood mechanic, & get a 2nd opinion. (The one in our neighborhood does good work at less than 1/2 the price of the local dealership.) for my son's 2011 Honda Fit, the dealership had the best price for an oil change (got 3 quotes)...it uses synthetic oil...one place told him $100.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2014 14:02:18 GMT -5
I would never trust the dealer to tell me what's wrong with a vehicle. They make most of their money from repairs, often when they're not really needed. Have a mechanic you trust look at it. My local place has a lifetime warranty on break pads, I guess they don't plan on people holding onto things very long. So far they have put three sets on my truck, and they average 70,000 miles per set. If you need them every 30,000 miles, and have transmission problems, someone must have a lead foot. I previously had brake pads with a lifetime warranty - still had to pay for the labor to replace them
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Peace Of Mind
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Post by Peace Of Mind on Apr 9, 2014 16:58:58 GMT -5
I don't mean to be selfish, Captain, but could you all please buy a gently used or brand new Subaru Outback and let me know how you like it? TYIA.
Happy vehicle shopping and please tell us any tricks you've learned in the process. I also dislike car shopping very much. Well - not the shopping part. Just the dealing with salesmen/women part and worrying about paying too much or getting stuff we don't need that jack the price up. I received a notice that they are already clearing out their 2014 models and I'm getting all kinds of emails from various dealers. We will work them against one another if we get serious unless we decide to buy new. Then we'll just have USAA do our negotiations for us. If they still provide that service. I think they charge for it now.
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Bonny
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Post by Bonny on Apr 9, 2014 17:27:35 GMT -5
If you are having to replace rotors he let the brakes go to long, did he not hear them squealing? They cut into rotors once they stop the squealing. What's his problem with maintenance?...I would not be going for another new car if he is that irresponsible. It all depends. I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee that I had to keep changing rotors on every quarter.
Turns out that the rotors were way undersized for the vehicle's weight. Lots of complaints on the National Traffic Safety site. I did a print out of about 10 pages and handed it to the Service Manager at the dealer.
I would go to the dealer every quarter and have them replace them. After a year one of the service manager's whispered "they won't let me tell you this but if you go to a local brake place ask them to put on after market "taxi" rotors". I did and never had to replace the rotors for the rest of the car's life. I had that car for 195,000 miles.
ETA: They were not 195k trouble-free miles. I was just too cheap to replace the car.
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milee
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Post by milee on Apr 9, 2014 17:43:33 GMT -5
he just finished changing oil on our vehicles and other maintenance, its not that hard. If he weren't doing it I would likely learn how. Highly dependent on the type of vehicle. Growing up, I knew how to change the oil on my cars and usually did. Depending on the make of car, it can be a challenge to even find the oil filter on the newer cars. And don't get me started on the German cars. No idea what it's like on a Kia, but I wouldn't assume it was easy.
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tskeeter
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Post by tskeeter on Apr 9, 2014 17:47:38 GMT -5
Brakes aren't repairs, all cars (including new ones) utilize brake pads from day#1. Along with tires and battery life. But the other 5 are all repairs - and way more than $4000 (the tranny alone is $4000). Drive shafts and boots are another $2500. Oil Pan? lol. When our #2 daughter was in college she crossed an empty parking lot in fresh snow - and starting hopping the concrete barriers - I don't recall the cost, ie, a tow, a new pan, etc. But how did your DH trash an Oil Pan? We've replaced the brake pads three times, had the rotors turned one and replaced them once already (I think the last time we replaced the brake pads). We do not live in a hilly area so there's no reason for the pads/rotors to wear as quickly as they do. I could be wrong on this though but I though you're supposed to get at least 30K out of a good brake pad and the rotors should be turned or changed every other time you change the pads? At 112K I think having to do both again is a bit early. As far as the oil pan, I dunno - it could be as easy as going up a driveway with a lip too quickly. The van had a recall so he took it to the dealership. I'm tempted to have him take it to our trusted local mechanic for a second looksee. We've had a little under 3K a year in average in repairs the past few years (axel, struts, can't remember what else). It just seems like we're getting to pouring in 3-4K a year in repairs that are coming more closer together timewise. I usually think about a set of brake pads every 40K miles. And our cars are almost always lightly loaded, so not hard on brake pads and rotors. And I always use a better than OEM brake pad when I do brakes. The OEM stuff on our cars only lasted about 25K miles. The pads I put in the Wrangler now have 75K miles on them and they are just over half worn out. The minivan, because it is heavier and perodically gets loaded heavier, goes through brakes much faster. The same might be true of your Sedona. As far as rotors go, to improve fuel economy, car makers are making rotors much lighter than they used to be. This often means that rotors don't have enough metal in them to be turned. Even once. And the thinner metal makes them prone to warping. These days, rotors are almost as consumable as brake pads. Two sets of rotors in 100K miles isn't terribly unreasonable. I have found that upgrading to premium rotors (usually heavier) has extended the rotor life, for me. I'd have your independent mechanic take a look at the car, too, before making any repairs. Seeping valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets can often be corrected in less than five minutes with a rachet, by retightening the bolts. And I wonder about the need for new half shafts. Unless a boot has gotten torn and dirt has destroyed the CV joints, drive shafts usually last the life of the car, well over 100K miles.
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The Captain
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Post by The Captain on Apr 9, 2014 19:15:43 GMT -5
I honestly did not know that about the rotors. Remember we drive our cars into the ground? So I guess I'm used to the days when they made them heavier.
Nuts! I've been bitching about how much I hate my car and wanted a different one. Looks like that will have to wait for one reason or another. We'll see what the trusted mechanic says...
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tskeeter
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Post by tskeeter on Apr 11, 2014 16:31:32 GMT -5
I honestly did not know that about the rotors. Remember we drive our cars into the ground? So I guess I'm used to the days when they made them heavier. Nuts! I've been bitching about how much I hate my car and wanted a different one. Looks like that will have to wait for one reason or another. We'll see what the trusted mechanic says... Captain, your rotor issues might have as much to do with where you drive the car as the car weight, etc. I had the most trouble with rotors when we lived in the flat LA basin. Even when compared to living in the Sierra Mountains. Very heavy stop and go traffic meant you were always on the brakes. So brakes over heated pretty regularly. To the point where I had two sets of rotors for the front of each car. When the rotors got too badly warped, I'd put in a fresh set of rotors from the shelf in the garage. Then I could take the used rotors in to be turned at my convenience. That meant I could do a brake job or rotor switch in about an hour and have the car back on the road, instead of having the car up on jack stands for several hours waiting for rotors to be turned. Since you live in the Chicago area, if you drive down to the loop area every day, you'd be in pretty heavy traffic for an hour or more twice every day. And you'd proably have similar issues to the ones we experienced in LA.
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