sesfw
Junior Associate
Today is the first day of the rest of my life
Joined: Dec 21, 2010 15:45:17 GMT -5
Posts: 6,268
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Post by sesfw on Apr 24, 2019 22:46:41 GMT -5
I'd go bigger, at least a 3-car.
Definitely go bigger. In 1976 DH#1 and I built a garage that measured 24 X 40 in snow country (Flagstaff). I told him that if either car had to sit outside overnight, he had to get rid of some junk. Both cars were inside every night. At that time we had a friend help with the building and we were in the county so minimum regulations. The cost at that time was $10K and worth every penny.
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sheilaincali
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 19, 2010 17:55:24 GMT -5
Posts: 4,131
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Post by sheilaincali on Apr 25, 2019 10:52:21 GMT -5
You'll need a permit (I'm assuming you already know that but honestly I just skimmed the responses) You can hire out subs to do the grading and excavating work. Honestly they'll be able to whip it out much faster than you can.
Here in MN you need frost footings for the slab because you are wanting to attach it to our house. If it was a true stand alone garage you could get by with a thickened edge but since you want to tie it into your existing house you'll need the frost footings to combat any potential freeze/thaw heaving. If your existing basement is poured wall you could drill and grout in some rebar to further attached the new garage footings to your existing house but It's not strictly necessary if you are attaching the garage walls to the house in a different manner.
Do yourself a favor and have a drain installed in your garage. Especially with all of the snow that will leak off your vehicles in the winter.
If you are hoping to do the bulk of the work yourself and hire out specialty things call the local suppliers to get contractor recommendations. Don't use google or the phone book. Any moron can add "Concrete" to his last name and declare himself a concrete contractor. IE- if you are hiring someone to do the footings or slab call your ready mix supplier and ask for recommendations. They have a vested interest in recommending customers in good standing with them so you won't get screwed with a lien on your property.
Plans- our local lumber yard has a full time CAD guy that can do drawings and plans for you- yours may have someone similar.
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sheilaincali
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 19, 2010 17:55:24 GMT -5
Posts: 4,131
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Garage
Apr 25, 2019 14:19:07 GMT -5
Post by sheilaincali on Apr 25, 2019 14:19:07 GMT -5
You can potentially save some money by doing concrete block footings over poured wall footings. But yeah- if you want to attach it to your house you'll have to do footings of some sort.
My family's "empire" is concrete based. My dad owned the local ready mix company (technically 5 of them in 7 cities) for 30 years before he sold it. Currently I own 52% of our concrete paving company and my dad still owns a block company and a precast concrete company. I can answer most concrete questions. My husband is a construction PM for a large national company. Happy to answer any questions you may have.
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sheilaincali
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 19, 2010 17:55:24 GMT -5
Posts: 4,131
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Post by sheilaincali on Apr 26, 2019 9:13:45 GMT -5
Fill will always be a cheaper option over more concrete. You just need to make sure it's properly compacted and in an area that won't wash out or erode away over time. I've seen people try to use fill but they have no support behind it so it'll erode away over time. If it's below grade and backfilled with dirt and your area's regular soil you should be fine.
BTW- I was just thinking about your payroll dilemma the other day- did you figure out a solution?
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