Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 9:35:31 GMT -5
So, I took my van in to get the summer tires on and got a laundry list of things that they said needed to get done to the tune of nearly 2K. Right now it's scheduled to go in on Tuesday to have it all done, but last night I started having second thoughts and am thinking of only picking a few. A couple things led me to this. One, I think I got a picky multi-point guy this time. It was just there a couple months ago and nothing but the air filter was flagged. He even said I needed brakes and they're at .6mm, so I definitely don't need those. The other thing was a I looked up the KBB value of my van and it's only about 3K! I couldn't believe it was that low and really it's worth more than that to me.
Anyhow, here's the list. What would you cut from the first round? I'm thinking struts, sway bar and shock.
Diagnose Oil leak - $114 (this one is the only one bothering me or affecting me at all right now, because it is leaking a lot, and that's just the diagnosis...who knows what needs to be done to fix)
Replace leaking passenger rear shock - $261
Passenger front sway bar link has play (replace) - $132
Power steering pump leaks (replace) - $436
Leaking inboard CV boot - $227
Front Ball Joint - $254
Alignment (required with ball joint replacement) - $70
Rear Strut assembly (replace) $406
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busymom
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Post by busymom on Apr 22, 2017 9:38:08 GMT -5
My first thought is: How old is the car? And, does this stuff happen a lot, or is it one of those "once a year" things?
If you car is getting more expensive to repair, than monthly payments on a newer car, maybe it's time to trade it in. JMHO. Good Luck!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 9:46:34 GMT -5
It's a 2005 Honda Odyssey with 185K miles on it. NO, this does not happen a lot. In the past 6 years I've had to replace one of the catalytic converters, replace the wheel bearings and had a spark plug blow out on me and my dad did the brakes once. Less than $1500 probably in the entire time frame besides oil changes and tires.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 11:08:19 GMT -5
Can someone move this to the main board? I didn't realize I posted in OT.
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Jaguar
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Post by Jaguar on Apr 22, 2017 11:19:59 GMT -5
I'll move it.
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endofera
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Post by endofera on Apr 22, 2017 11:25:49 GMT -5
Personally, I wouldn't do any of it unless the oil leak is severe. If you are having to add a lot of oil I'd get that looked at but $114 to just diagnose seems high to me. I'm skeptical of all the other leaking things.
Unless you're getting thrown all over the road or bouncing with every small bump by the other stuff, I'd drive it through to next fall without doing any of that work and then evaluate at that time if you need it done to get you through winter.
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Shooby
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Post by Shooby on Apr 22, 2017 11:28:02 GMT -5
Take it to another mechanic for a look. But i would not want to lose my power steering.
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obelisk
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Post by obelisk on Apr 22, 2017 11:56:35 GMT -5
Oil leak at a non dealership. Ball joint if needed, get second opinion.
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Post by The Walk of the Penguin Mich on Apr 22, 2017 12:03:48 GMT -5
Unless you are planning on getting the oil leak fixed, I'd not diagnose it. I'd probably do the power steering repairs.
The rest it will suck to drive, but your van has reached the end of its life. At this point, you need to patch it up until you can get something else.
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andi9899
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Post by andi9899 on Apr 22, 2017 12:11:15 GMT -5
I'd ask for a referral for a different mechanic. I wouldn't pay to have an oil leak diagnosed. But I don't let dealerships do my mechanic work. I do buy the prepaid oil change packages that end up being the same price as oil change/tire rotation for my mechanic. They always give me a laundry list of stuff that needs to be done. I then take the list to my mechanic who then tells me what actually needs to be done and prioritizes it for me.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 12:50:16 GMT -5
Unless you are planning on getting the oil leak fixed, I'd not diagnose it. I'd probably do the power steering repairs. The rest it will suck to drive, but your van has reached the end of its life. At this point, you need to patch it up until you can get something else. The thing is, is it doesn't suck to drive. It's smooth and not bouncing around at all. I just don't want something to snap when I'm 100 miles from home. I'm hard on vehicles and put on a lot of miles, typically at least 400 a week, so I really would rather beat a 3K car than a 13K one. This van has two new sets of tires, new battery and new plugs and wires. I was really hoping to get two more years out of it.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 12:52:19 GMT -5
I really want the oil leak fixed though! I have sheets of cardboard down in the garage and they're soaked. I typically put a quart in every 2-3 weeks.
They put a dye in the oil and run it for awhile and then take a black light to the undercarriage to figure out where it's coming from.
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sesfw
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Post by sesfw on Apr 22, 2017 13:37:27 GMT -5
I would get a second opinion ........ and fix anything that leaks
Running on empty tends to destroy machines
If the ride is smooth I would second guess the replacement of shocks, sway bars, etc.
Definitely a second opinion
I've gotten lists like this from car dealers before ...... and I'm sure it was because I am female and was in my late 60s.
Good luck
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Post by The Walk of the Penguin Mich on Apr 22, 2017 13:55:32 GMT -5
I really want the oil leak fixed though! I have sheets of cardboard down in the garage and they're soaked. I typically put a quart in every 2-3 weeks. They put a dye in the oil and run it for awhile and then take a black light to the undercarriage to figure out where it's coming from. What is the likelihood that the oil leak is going to be a cheap fix?
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obelisk
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Post by obelisk on Apr 22, 2017 14:06:45 GMT -5
I really want the oil leak fixed though! I have sheets of cardboard down in the garage and they're soaked. I typically put a quart in every 2-3 weeks. They put a dye in the oil and run it for awhile and then take a black light to the undercarriage to figure out where it's coming from. What is the likelihood that the oil leak is going to be a cheap fix? Most likely valve cover gaskets
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 14:09:18 GMT -5
I really want the oil leak fixed though! I have sheets of cardboard down in the garage and they're soaked. I typically put a quart in every 2-3 weeks. They put a dye in the oil and run it for awhile and then take a black light to the undercarriage to figure out where it's coming from. What is the likelihood that the oil leak is going to be a cheap fix? Probably not likely, but hard to say. It came on sudden and I took it into a mechanic last Winter and he told me whoever changed my oil last stripped the hole in the oil pan and the bolt wasn't tight. He told me that because it was an aluminum pan it was probably f**ed, and would need to be replaced. Took it back to dealership and they spent forever trying to get the bolt out and replaced with a bigger one (which first mechanic said you couldn't do with aluminum pans). My HOPE is they just have to replace the pan and it's all better and it's not a bunch of seals. Not that a pan is a cheap fix... However, the note from the mechanic on the multi point check said "multiple engine oil leaks". I don't know if that's just because he couldn't tell where it was coming from and there was a lot of oil or if he could really see spots.
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dee27
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Post by dee27 on Apr 22, 2017 14:15:59 GMT -5
I agree a second opinion is a good idea, but if the second opinion is as costly as the first one, I would replace the vehicle with another used van. Since you do have a commute to work and do take the kids to activities after school, you need a reliable vehicle.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 14:27:23 GMT -5
I'm too conflicted, and I don't believe any of this is urgent, so I think I'm going to call Monday morning and cancel the entire appointment and take it somewhere else. Maybe even give them the list of things the first place found and ask if they really think these are bad.
First place was a dealership anyhow, and normally I don't have them do anything, but my mechanic Dad is laid up after knee replacement, and my neighbor is booked out for the next 6 weeks. Those were my go to people for a lot of this stuff.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 14:38:12 GMT -5
I really do not want to have to buy another car, but, I am thinking about going to go look at this Subaru. <sigh> lacrosse.craigslist.org/cto/6091602894.htmlIt's a little over my price range, but if I could talk them down to $10,500 I'd be ok. My hope was to make it two more years so I could afford something with lower miles (and a back-up camera!) and even then I was planning on the van being around as a back up for DS.
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Jaguar
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Post by Jaguar on Apr 22, 2017 14:41:55 GMT -5
Oh you just have to get that, minnesotapaintlady, it's got you written all over it. It's darn perfect!
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Jaguar
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Post by Jaguar on Apr 22, 2017 14:43:10 GMT -5
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Post by The Walk of the Penguin Mich on Apr 22, 2017 14:58:24 GMT -5
I really do not want to have to buy another car, but, I am thinking about going to go look at this Subaru. <sigh> lacrosse.craigslist.org/cto/6091602894.htmlIt's a little over my price range, but if I could talk them down to $10,500 I'd be ok. My hope was to make it two more years so I could afford something with lower miles (and a back-up camera!) and even then I was planning on the van being around as a back up for DS. With the turbo, it is going to need premium gas. You will also want to determine if there are any head gasket leaks.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 15:07:14 GMT -5
I really do not want to have to buy another car, but, I am thinking about going to go look at this Subaru. <sigh> lacrosse.craigslist.org/cto/6091602894.htmlIt's a little over my price range, but if I could talk them down to $10,500 I'd be ok. My hope was to make it two more years so I could afford something with lower miles (and a back-up camera!) and even then I was planning on the van being around as a back up for DS. With the turbo, it is going to need premium gas. You will also want to determine if there are any head gasket leaks. Yuck. I don't like that. I also don't know what to make of the reviews. Half love the car, but a lot are pissed off about repair costs after 100K miles. I think I'll just go mow the lawn and chill out. Of course my lawn mower was acting up last fall so this might stress me out even more.
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weltschmerz
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Post by weltschmerz on Apr 22, 2017 15:49:12 GMT -5
I got mine replaced for about $150. That seems pricy.
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NoNamePerson
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Post by NoNamePerson on Apr 22, 2017 16:01:32 GMT -5
I would get a second opinion ........ and fix anything that leaks Running on empty tends to destroy machines If the ride is smooth I would second guess the replacement of shocks, sway bars, etc. Definitely a second opinion I've gotten lists like this from car dealers before ...... and I'm sure it was because I am female and was in my late 60s. Good luck Wait till you are in your 70s. They will try to convince you the car will explode if you don't get the laundry list done right then.
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Post by The Walk of the Penguin Mich on Apr 22, 2017 16:07:56 GMT -5
I would get a second opinion ........ and fix anything that leaks Running on empty tends to destroy machines If the ride is smooth I would second guess the replacement of shocks, sway bars, etc. Definitely a second opinion I've gotten lists like this from car dealers before ...... and I'm sure it was because I am female and was in my late 60s. Good luck Wait till you are in your 70s. They will try to convince you the car will explode if you don't get the laundry list done right then. I was told I was going to have a catastrophic brake failure by a dealership. I think the rhetoric is more due to the gender than she.
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lund
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Post by lund on Apr 22, 2017 16:40:26 GMT -5
I discussed this over the evening meal, and this is the results.Diagnose Oil leak - $114 (this one is the only one bothering me or affecting me at all right now, because it is leaking a lot, and that's just the diagnosis...who knows what needs to be done to fix) I would have this checked out. If it gets worse, it can get much worse very quickly, and leave you stranded with an engine beyond repair.Replace leaking passenger rear shock - $261 I would do this as well. Surprisingly expensive, though. Do you know somebody who might help? (This may be a not very difficult DIY thing.)(Are there any non-original brands that might work?) And both rear shocks should be replaced at the same time. Passenger front sway bar link has play (replace) - $132 Ask a mechanic if it can wait. If it is bad, it will affect steering. Power steering pump leaks (replace) - $436 How much? If you can refill this yourself and check the level and it is sufficient in the system and not sinking too fast, it probably can wait a while. Leaking inboard CV boot - $227 Change a.s.a.p. If there is a hole, you will get sand in the joint and have to change that, which is expensive. (Make sure to get the old part to check for the damage...)
Front Ball Joint - $254 Small play - small effect on steering, large play - large effect on steering, more dangerous at higher speeds. Ask a trustworthy mechanic if it can wait... It is a bit subjective as to the play in the joint.Alignment (required with ball joint replacement) - $70 Do. Also prolonges the life for your tires.Rear Strut assembly (replace) $406 I don't get what this means at all. It sounds like a *beep* lot of money to fork over for something, so I would have it explained more in detail and get a second opinion on it. In my world, there is either a separate shock absorber and a coiled spring with seats, or a strut assembly. If the assembly is changed, why list the shock separately? (In the front, I would expectit to be different though, with a strut assembly. And a strut assembly change should be done in pairs and be followed by an alignment.)
. . . And at 0.6 millimeters thickness of the brake pads, I would get new brake pads immediately! 0.6mm is approx. 3/128 of an inch, and new brake pads are closer to 3/8 of an inch... In case the comma was misplaced, 6mm is approx 1/4 inch, so they would be OK. Under 1/8 inch or 3mm I would consider replacing.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 16:41:49 GMT -5
I got mine replaced for about $150. That seems pricy. On an Odyssey? I'm seeing the part costing more than that. It probably is high though as it's at a dealership. I looked up the cost on repairpal.com The average cost for a Honda Odyssey Power Steering Pump Replacement is between $348 and $987. Labor costs are estimated between $140 and $178 while parts are priced between $208 and $809. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.
That's quite a range! LOL
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weltschmerz
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Post by weltschmerz on Apr 22, 2017 16:51:29 GMT -5
I got mine replaced for about $150. That seems pricy. On an Odyssey? I'm seeing the part costing more than that. It probably is high though as it's at a dealership. I looked up the cost on repairpal.com The average cost for a Honda Odyssey Power Steering Pump Replacement is between $348 and $987. Labor costs are estimated between $140 and $178 while parts are priced between $208 and $809. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.
That's quite a range! LOL That's why I don't go to a dealership. I went to my friendly neighborhood mechanic who does work for cheap. Even cheaper if you pay cash.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2017 16:54:30 GMT -5
I discussed this over the evening meal, and this is the results.Diagnose Oil leak - $114 (this one is the only one bothering me or affecting me at all right now, because it is leaking a lot, and that's just the diagnosis...who knows what needs to be done to fix) I would have this checked out. If it gets worse, it can get much worse very quickly, and leave you stranded with an engine beyond repair.Replace leaking passenger rear shock - $261 I would do this as well. Surprisingly expensive, though. Do you know somebody who might help? (This may be a not very difficult DIY thing.)(Are there any non-original brands that might work?) And both rear shocks should be replaced at the same time. Passenger front sway bar link has play (replace) - $132 Ask a mechanic if it can wait. If it is bad, it will affect steering. Power steering pump leaks (replace) - $436 How much? If you can refill this yourself and check the level and it is sufficient in the system and not sinking too fast, it probably can wait a while. Leaking inboard CV boot - $227 Change a.s.a.p. If there is a hole, you will get sand in the joint and have to change that, which is expensive. (Make sure to get the old part to check for the damage...)
Front Ball Joint - $254 Small play - small effect on steering, large play - large effect on steering, more dangerous at higher speeds. Ask a trustworthy mechanic if it can wait... It is a bit subjective as to the play in the joint.Alignment (required with ball joint replacement) - $70 Do. Also prolonges the life for your tires.Rear Strut assembly (replace) $406 I don't get what this means at all. It sounds like a *beep* lot of money to fork over for something, so I would have it explained more in detail and get a second opinion on it. In my world, there is either a separate shock absorber and a coiled spring with seats, or a strut assembly. If the assembly is changed, why list the shock separately? (In the front, I would expectit to be different though, with a strut assembly. And a strut assembly change should be done in pairs and be followed by an alignment.)
. . . And at 0.6 millimeters thickness of the brake pads, I would get new brake pads immediately! 0.6mm is approx. 3/128 of an inch, and new brake pads are closer to 3/8 of an inch... In case the comma was misplaced, 6mm is approx 1/4 inch, so they would be OK. Under 1/8 inch or 3mm I would consider replacing. Yeah, that was a typo. I meant 6 mm. I'm not sure on the strut assembly, but when I look up parts list they don't include the shocks in the picture of the strut assembly.
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